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Are you sure controller is not set to 52V? It would see 48V battery (actual voltage) as empty. ...but still 48V battery should charge to 54.6V

This one...

Battery can't be all those things at the same time. Was battery fully charged when you measured voltage? 48V is low for charged battery. Can you post some pictures of battery, bike, controller. The more the better. ...I have funny feeling about your setup and your batteries.

Some e-bikes don't and some e-bikes do.

That is a misinformation.

Chun-wah Tsang https://find-and-update.company-information.service.gov.uk/company/SC703302/persons-with-significant-control https://find-and-update.company-information.service.gov.uk/company/SC727655/persons-with-significant-control His conversions don't look legal at all.

Chinese generic e-bike is what I would go for while avoiding Halfords and second hand e-bikes. https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/warning-ebike-batteries-have-short-lives.47910/

In UK Woosh is where you can buy very powerful and legal motors. Woosh is not cheap, but they have motors others don't. After you decide which motor to buy please make sure you buy right battery too. If you buy powerful motor and don't pair it with right battery, your bike and your house might...

1000W rear hub is not suitable for MTB. Direct drive motor is not suitable for MTB. Battery on rear rack is a bad idea as well. Your Saracen is not suitable for conversion - there is no space on downtube. Out of desperation you can print battery case, build it and install under downtube, but it...

Yep, you are definitely tempted by 500W. You keep coming back to this inconspicuous 500W Unfortunately there is no simple answer to that. Best answer would be "it depends". I understand why you might be confused. After all 500 is more than 250. 500 is 2*250, so it must be better and stronger...

Have you tightened bolts enough? Use any means available to secure battery. Rivet nuts, velcro straps, extra bracket etc. 48V 24Ah must be massive. Battery can't wobble. UPP don't have good reputation. Ideally charge and store outside.

Great for stabilizers with a little boost.

Indeed. It only proves how different we all are. I don't see anything in this bike what would justify such high price. Nothing at all. ...but I am happy that you both enjoy cycling. After all this is what really matters.

A lot will also depend on how you ride your bike and where. I have two e-bikes with front hub motors. Both with low powered motors and both survived without torque arms just fine. One aluminum low end suspension fork and one steel rigid. Having that said I consider it to be poor and risky...

Fully charged 48V battery has around 54V 54V * 20A = 960W

I am really amazed by how much money you guys are ready to spend on bikes. I would consider it to be a good deal if they were offering them with 80% discount and even then I would seriously consider other options.

£400 to fix new £3000 bike? :rolleyes:

I suggested conversion because if you go that way you would gain control over your bike in terms of design and future repairs. You might like to read this thread: https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/warning-ebike-batteries-have-short-lives.47910/?view=date#post-726962 Whatever you choose...

Problem with e-bikes is they are not so nice to pedal after they reach 25km/h. Is conversion an option?

What an idiot. Not sure if you noticed, but on previous video he didn't even put wheel in dropouts.