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Just google,'How to adjust front deraileur', you'll get all the help you need.

I wish an electric vehicle would suit me, I really do. I'm 65 and totally debt free. I live rurally (nearest bank branch is now a 28 mile round journey) in a terraced house with no driveway or garage. I've never had the capital, or wish, to own a new car (the initial depreciation I find...

Well, if it's 135mm as in Harrys photo, then I don't think it's going to be an issue. As I said I can spring the forks to 134 with my 65 year old arms. Maybe just maybe it will centralize as is, but I don't think a spacer or ar washer, on the inside, is going to be too much. I'll be buying...

Another thought. In all this I still don't know if the Q100H axle is actually 140mm or not. I have just found a thread on ES. A guy there called Motomech reckons that all Q100 series are 135mm dropouts. Now with swmbo holding the tape measure, I'm able to spring the chainstays to 134mm with...

WOW! This is getting way beyond my pay grade.:oops: I know that aluminium stress fractures, on repeated bending, easier than steel. But this will be a static bend, won't it? In other words once the stretch is made it stays there (the 140mm axle holds it apart) it's not a repeated action. I...

OK, so there's a difference of view on the flexibility of aluminium, I've heard that ally frames give a harsher ride because of it's lack of flex. Can't say that I've noticed. The issue here is, am I going to be able to get the motor axle inbetween the rear forks. I can see how not having a...

Couple of years ago I stopped and picked up a slow worm lying in the middle of a cycle track above Llanelli. It was torpid and would have got run over, it soon got warmed from the heat of my hands and zipped off into the undergrowth. I hadn't seen one for about 40 years.

It's got 6 on it with a twist grip changer. Frames aluminium whereas the forks are steel, so a front hub is still a possibility. So I've got about 11" to spring 5mm/side. I can do about 4mm total with my hands, think it'll go?

Now I've got the rear wheel out (so I can order a freewheel removal tool) and I see that the dropouts are 130mm. Can anyone confirm if a Q100H will fit? I seem to remember standard dropouts being 140mm. As the rear triangle is so short I can't see this springing a whole 10mm.

Seems to me that you've just made the best arguement FOR converting these bikes. The motor in the rear triangle will put a rotational force onto the dropouts but will be spread by a torque bracket. This force will have a steady nature, not the pulsing nature that comes from the rider...

Thanks vfr, I now see that the chain whip is actually a fitting tool not a removal tool, and why would you need one anyway when you can stand on the peddle. I'll get the back wheel out and see which I need. I did wonder about the 260rpm, I've seen 328rpm motors for 20" wheels, just can't...

I've been trawling BMSB and I've come up with a list. If you spot something that's missing or something that won't fit together, I'd be grateful for the steer. Motor Wheel https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/633-16315-q100h-36v350w-rear-e-bike-motor-wheel-ebike-kit.html#/327-rpm-260 They don't...

Crossed with your post vfr. What you say about the fold and cables makes sense. So it looks like BMS for the motor etc, and Yose for battery. I'll start putting a list together.

It turns out that the forks are steel as are the dropouts, rear dropouts are aluminium. So most convenient would be the Yose power front kit (torque arms sourced elsewhere) with a bolt on rack battery. For rear it looks like it would be BMS battery, where I would have to put the kit together...

The (10) is the winding code and denotes the maximum rpm of the motor. Don't know the codes, maybe some one else will say. If you go 36v to 48v you will increase that rpm by 25%. If you overvolt be careful on increasing the maximum controller current. Crossed with vfr's post, I bow to his...

Harrys, it's 20" both ends. I said the wheels only have 26spokes, perhaps that's the confusion.

I did honest, but they're all down lights and not much reflection of the oak floor. It's a sort of stirrup, probably for protecting the paintwork when folded. Yose power don't seem to do a rear 20", I've linked a front 20" above. He's wanting fair sized batteries so thought one of these might...

OK, so my neighbour has two of these that he wants to convert. They are Apollo Transitions from Halfords. 26" wheel, simple frame fold with foldable handlebar stem. Front dropouts are 100mm, rear appears to be 130mm. Clearance on bb spindle to peddle is a bit tight at 3mm. Gears are 6 speed...

I agree, my knees were hurting just looking at it. Maybe it has a place if you live in a tenth floor flat and need to only get two miles to work. Beyond that, the seating position makes it muscle ache waiting to happen. But hang on, it's got a throttle which, in the video is the main means of...

Totally depends on which bike/manufacturer. Some have communications protocols that are hard to get around. Others are 'dumb' batteries and anything you like can be connected in there - so long as it's not steam powered :rolleyes: