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Eventually the cut outs will become more frequent with heat issue, the mosfets will eventually fail as they are subjected to more heating.

Good point SW , forgot about the Giant connection. Best put in the garden to use as a trellis and buy a nice generic hub bike, much better for spares and reliability. One day all bikes will be hub again as the dodgy mid drive closed system bikes will have had their day :p.

Sureky the obvious is a Yamaha dealer with diagnostics ?

Non of these have PAS. 24V/36V/48V Twist Throttle With 250W/350W/500W/1000W Brushed Motor YIYUN YK31C Controller One Set For Electric Scooter E-Bike - AliExpress

A modern one is for three phase and hall effect motors (brushless motor) , your motor is a simple two phase so is a brushed motor. The two aren't compatible. One will need a different controller , one for brushed motors. A brushed speed controller with PAS is very difficult to come by today.

For the cost of which a Santroll would cost to buy and replace (if available) one could upgrade to a complete KT system for less money.

As above typically OEM only but now and they turn up on ebay often though 36v and seel for stupid money in excess of £100. If it has the block wire connectors one can carry out some simple checks with a meter to see where or if it may be faulty. Some pics of the controller wiring are needed.

Brown is often used for 5v but as it is controller side one can easily check with meter to see it has 5v . But yes as already posted B-B , R- Br and Gr - Wh is what I would use . Checking 5v is easy though so no need to guess.

Woosh are excellant to deal with before then the exemplary CS/after service. The desired KT supplied kit is worth buying for the system alone. Cyclotricity use KT stuff but are expensive also firmware may be custom firmware an option KT have for OEM supliers , ths may rule out using standard KT...

I reckon there will quite a few EAPC's and ebikes that have come out of hibernation today and likely there will be a few disappointed fair weather riders with batteries that are either dead or won't charge.

STC1000 is popular amongst us apiarists for temp control of honey.

It might be if you live in the USA.

To get the correct length spoke simpy remove a good spoke and measure it. Sapim Strong 14g SS from Ryanspokes/Ryanbuildswheels.

Yes . All of the wire looms that use 1T4 cables etc,etc do exactly this and use the one 5v and Gnd as a common wire supply and split off within in the mould connector.

Ride your bike as normal and if it works ok (without hills /overheating) then one has already narrowed down the issue . In all probability it won't be until one replicates the slow speed up a steeper incline using the same PAS level that one will see the fault again, when it does immediately...

Bit of a bugger that . Looks like one will have to carry out some controller tests but if you have waterproof connectors then it isn't straight forward. Controller Mosfets and motor Halls are the two main areas to check but will depend if the connectors are at all user friendly to poke...

Very highly unlikely imv to be the PAS as it would occur intimittently more often, the mosfet scenario in the hotter climate will likely be the cause and easier to replicate by riding then playing about on a bike stand.

Controller thermal cut out of the mosfets was my second thought on reading the #1 again, having previously not read it properly. Hence asking the climbing speed. I know when I had thermal cutitng out riding the South Downs, I too was riding too slowly for the steep sections I came across. Heat...

How fast do you pedal up hill when the power cuts out ?

Good point I over looked, yep if the display remains on then the fault is likely elsewhere.