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Lipo have no BMS so need the balance wires for charging/balancing (unless like me and modded 8s and 4s lipo wiring for 12s and added a BMS , simply for the conveneance when charging ). Lion don't need balance wires as they don't go out of whack if normal and correct charging practices are...

Not an issue to add an exterior set of sense wires , though the jst will need protection from moisture . Easy for a home made diy pack (soft case ) contained with in a battery zip case but not so for a hard shell case where wirng and jst are out of view. For the most part balancing isn't needed...

Rear wheel is most often used , one can stack magnets if a gap is too large. I have double up a magnet before now to reduce the gap.

All will have a BMS incorporated.

Wisper bikes .

No issues with unpowered riding with both drives , tsdz2 is miles better then the bbs01 with no power .

Just pedal harder for more speed or buy a better drive type, my little G370 front hub easily gets to 22mph once I'm over the 15mph spd cut off. My tsdz2 also is easy to pedal to 20mph +.

Post the ad on Woosh used bike web page, it doesn't cost anything.

KT motor cut off is instant there is no over run. The main reason for fitting a brake sensor is to ensure one has a cut off so that one doesn't blow the controller when a throttle is fitted. Whether one uses the throttle matters not, the reason is in case of throttle failure/shorting via water...

Swap the motors over ?

Lube the cable outer and the inner shaft with a very slippery almost friction free lube, the best lube will likely be in your fridge . Simple spread or butter will aid in pulling the cable through.

My speed reading goes up and down with PAS use and goes down to zero when not peddalling and or braking no matter the setting with my G370 hub. Wattage figure will go down when braking as power is simply not being applied as it will also do when you hit back EMF or near the cut off speed.

A PAS wll already be fitted so if it doesn't work then the easiest option without removing cranks etc,etc is to simply cut off both connectors then solder and shrink the joint. Black to Black , Red to Red or Brown and the last colour pair will be signal and any colour chosen to be used. As...

All you need to do is make sure the wire order matches that of the controller connection. If not chnage the pin outs in the controller connector or simply cut both connectors off and solder/shrink the wire order correctly. Magnet gap 5mm - 10mm max.

How did you get on with the GSM ? My two were complete failures and between the two I had failed to complete a total of 300 miles.

Speak to Woosh first, they willikely tell you the battery case designation.

P1 46 or 48 for the front DD hub, then one should see better speed. Rear hub is geared so P1 84 - 100 on will have to play around with the P1 value and use a GPS to figure the correct speed corrolation with the lcd readout.

One needs a pic or two to try and id the rack and battery case type, one rack battery to another can be quite different so not a universal fit. Sometimes it is easier to resort to buying a new rack with battery and simply swap it out, alternatively one may be able to buy a battery of the same...

8 or 10 pole would be my choice.

The first two are V12L type PAS sensors and have nothing to do with speed, you need the last option.