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I never had any issues with my KT S06S controller using the integral light supply, with a basic rear 36v lamp and a front lamp with integral horn switched via the the added in horn /light switch.

P1 affects the motor speed (geared hub) if it isn't set correctly for the motors reduction gearing , for a DD hub it has no reduction gearing the P1 value is also critical. Go into the settings and see what the P1 value is set to.

I use the basic shimano clipons with a narrow platform on oneside for day to day flat sole shoes , never had an issue with unclipping . As Andy has mentioned one simply adjusts tension with an Allen key so one can easily unclip.

Walk assist is usually enabled on most bikes , if no dedicated WA button or pad then holding the down/- pad/button will operate WA.

Do what most of us do , learn to do it your self . All the jobs you want done are easypeasy , it's not like you want a wheel build.

You have to set P1 value correctly.

Geared .

Exactly he had the conversion done there but likely they are to dear ?

Direct drive 1kw motor aka a dinner plate, likel weighs in at 5.3kg. Wouldn't want that in those forks the drops out will snap for sure and face plant you.

Folks read too much nonsense about hubs simply because the articles don't use the best control systems or use the correct voltage or applied current.

250w rated hubs have got me up hills ok , Ditchling Beacon is no mean feat for a non athletic rider and so got me up with out issue, even with my asthma. Coming down is even better , one can top 40/50 mph with no power but have to wary of washing out on the bends coming down on gravally bits.

For flat terrain with no big hills ,I can recommend the excellent Bafang G370 mini front hub an ideal trailer towing hub which is light and doesn't give any handling or steering effect. Rides without power without one noticing it until one looks at the display and can't see any readout ...

With bad knee's, the last you need is a Torque multiplier system so look at a geared hub bike. Why a mtb they are so yesterday, ok if you are a off roader but tbh don't see the appeal of them if only used for the road or a light trail.

Just a bunch of meaningless numbers , most likely a factory /producer S/N. Lets see a proper hub pic .

No , throttle is basically a thumb switch . On or off, basic speed control. Controller isn't programmed for power graduation via a thumb throttle only via PAS for which it is excellant.

My old bbs01 was 18a max, which almost tallied with the 630w read out.

With a hub motor the internal gearing is a factor , the higher the gearing reduction ration then the better it will ride with no power and on flat or slightly rising terrain if one has forgotten to take the bike out of PAS 0 then one will hardly notice . An advantage of a higher gearing...

Let us know when the UPP catches fire, it coul dbe the first time we have heard of a forum member battery fire.

Capacity varies a lot. Typically 18650 is approx. 3450mah for a 3500mah rated cell, where as a 21700 cell is 4200mah - 5000mah . My small ali bottle battery with 24 LG hg2 's is 44v/6000mah and weighs in at 1.436kg. My 21700 moli with 24 P42's is 44v/8400mah weighs in at 2.209kg. Indeed it is...

For me 18650 is still king for my small 44v bottle battery builds , one simply can't do it with 21700 format. Otherwise 21700 format is the one for general battery builds or the nice 18650 Sam 35e3 or Moli's. Molicell is the chosen cell selected by UK venture EVTL / Vertical aerospace for...