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Cage pedals - as fitted to Ann's bike - can be surprisingly grippy. I nearly toppled off my Brompton a couple of times because one foot didn't want to lift off a pedal when I came to rest. The type of sole on my shoe will also have had something to do with it.

An American maker of high end tandems did some tests and found V brakes applied more braking force than discs. The proof was they could skid one of their tandems with a V brake, but not with a disc. The V brake needed to be long drop, for good leverage, and rigid, so it didn't flex in use...

I will stick with Shimano on this one, but thanks anyway.

http://www.shimano.com.au/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Notes/SI_3000H/SI-3000H-En_v1_m56577569830606259.pdf

The lever needs to be pushed home as far over as it will go - out of the way of the fork. As regards pressure, the usual advice is closing the lever should leave an indent on your palm, but it shouldn't be graunched home as tight as you can make it. Shimano's patented cam action means the...

Yes, 9/16 or metric equivalent 14mm - standard bike pedal size. You will need a spanner to remove the old pedals and fit the new ones. Hardly worth buying one for a single job. Might be just as easy to go to a bike shop and pick some pedals from there, which they ought to fit for you.

Evening Dave, Good to hear from you again, shame about the circumstances. That descent to the Fish Quay is steep, it wouldn't be impossible for a bike to get away from its rider. I can't add a lot to what's been posted about the quick release. For what it's worth, the recall concerned...

The cheapest option will be two kits, a second hand Somerby and the Carrera in the shed. Nothing wrong with Carreras, they are good, sturdy bikes and ideal for conversion. But that's still going to cost more than £1,000 and could be a lot of faff, dealing with suppliers and fitting both kits...

Quite so. As an example, your Delite/Rohloff is so well made it could last practically forever, but the battery will not. Most Bosch motors are on decent quality bikes, so as time goes on there will be owners who only need a new battery to keep their bikes on the road. And I would be first in...

I think there's a danger of trying to read too much into these things.

Your use of decimal points is ridiculous. The kit you have is incapable of accurately measuring a tenth of a mile an hour, apart from the stupid notion that climbing a hill a fraction a mile an hour faster is of any practical relevance. Questioning your hearing? You've lost me there, seems to...

I agree woosh bikes can suffer from niggly faults. Of course, any bike can, but by throwing more money in to get a Kalkhoff you are weighing the reliability odds more heavily in your favour. You are also getting a nicely made, quality bicycle. That's not so important to some buyers, but it is...

No, never heard of it, or him, or possibly her. Nor can I help with your drag question, but I'm sure others will.

Thanks for the info. As flecc explained to me a while ago, lower power motors don't put so much strain on the battery. My standard Bosch motor bikes are comparatively weedy, so the batteries ought to last well.