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That's great progress. Is there mileage in taking it a logical step further? The certifiable black box has shifted from ebike model to closed electronics system, could it become the consumer-proof battery (perhaps alongside systems)? By that I mean one with all the protections that can keep...

Monitoring and datalogging are available (openly) via a Bluetooth BMS, fast charging commonly uses comms but doesn't need to. Comms moves info and that lets you relocate circuitry should you choose to. I explained how legislating to obligate that can make products less safe.

I'm glad to learn cost isn't a major issue and maybe compatability could be achieved. I wrote "if a BMS works properly mischarging can't cause a problem, and as part of the battery a BMS's protection is permanent" ...and so it's tamperproof and effective even in mismatched systems. For many...

Regretably that's what the certification lobbying is all about, they even spell it out, look: 3 (1) (1) The Secretary of State must, within 12 months of the passing of this Act, make regulations: (b) Requiring that all micromobility vehicles have either (i) a non-proprietary charging system...

"stupid user behaviour..." A BMS cuts off if you pull too much current, or if high current persists making the cells too hot. It cuts off the wrong charger when current, voltage or temperature gets too high. It's there to take consumer grade misuse out of the equation, among other things...

Agree 100%. Lithium ion cells have quite stringent requirements for stability, for example they tolerate a similar temperature range to a beeswax candle. The socio-economic aspect to fires needs public education to tackle them effectively.

The BMS is there to protect the cells, weak or otherwise, by cutting off. If charging causes a problem it's because the BMS isn't protecting the cells adequately. Charging does warm up cells but less than strong sunlight and much less than hard riding. I think we should turn our attention to...

Nightmare :( As far as I can see mechanical indexing could be used to pair the right battery with a model of bike, and these awkward connectors only serve to tie the consumer to the brand.

Someone posted not long ago showing pics of their old battery and its similarly specced replacement but the sockets were incompatible. If anyone can point me to that thread I'd be really grateful, I've done a looong search.

That's certainly prudent. Proper storage and use affect safety but charging not so much (unless the BMS is cr*p). There's a pressing need to understand charging well because inept and harmful legislation is entering the pipeline based on the media's ignorance about it.

"The charger isn’t in control, the BMS is." That's key, and it means if the BMS is working as it should you can't overcharge a battery. A decent BMS provides Low Voltage Cutoff (LVC), HVC, overcurrent in/out and short cutoffs, as well as overtemperature, balance etc. functions. If too fast...

1. Many BMS start cell balancing when the battery's nearly full so it's useful to leave a 'full' battery on charge for an hour or two every few weeks, some say more often. 2. Overall battery voltage doesn't say much about balance because some cells can be under and others over (4.2V is chosen...

My controllers have stall cut-out but I don't know if that's usual, without it MOSFETs could last seconds. A hub motor shell is well separated from the windings, so the windings can smoke and smell while the casing's still warming up. For an EAPC system 30 seconds and up is probably the better...

Depending on your long steep hills you might need a big battery and a TA. Our hills are around 8% 0.7 miles and 12% 200 metres and for that I've a Gran Camino with DWG22C at 36V 17Ah, it's a well built bike and works a treat (although TBH the drivability of the 2021 speed firmware is pretty rough).

Wear can be down to age or usage, the cell resistances and self discharge increase and their capacities reduce. The BMS optimises use of available capacity by balancing the voltages but it can't reverse actual capacity loss, so an old pack ought to charge to full but discharge too quickly in...

Thing is though that the adapter cables are bulky, cost around £60 and I don't see what keeps them from being nicked while in use. Would this european system succeed over here? I'm not sure.

It may be best to set the meter aside for now then and write up symptoms in gory detail, they'll be needed for a refund or exchange. Like so: Summary: charged battery seems dead because bike display doesn't come on. Blue bike : battery 36V 15Ah serial 123, controller 36V 7/14A, these work...

The smaller battery may not charge faster, it just reaches full sooner, but a ride doesn't have to start from full. If the Yose arrives home having used 2V of its 42V it's ready to make that trip a few more times, so its immediacy is better than the smaller battery: you could charge it once a week.

If you're new to electrics don't use the meter terminal marked 10A / mA10A yet. With a battery, work slowly in good light in a comfortable position, and if anything isn't what you expect take a moment to think it through or read up. Maybe steady both hands on a surface and move one probe at a...

The rear dropouts look 10mm for a hub motor but the frame's too small for a regular battery and the BB has external bearings. Can the BB be changed to suit a mid-motor? Any other difficulties?