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Slap some studded tyres on the Gary Fisher and the winter world's your lobster.

Any bike, although I can never see the point of wrecking the handling of lightweight road bike with a heavy kit such as this one. Most conversions are done on mountain bikes or flat bar hybrids.

No worries. Oxygen's web presence has always been a bit hit and miss. But the guy who now runs the company is sound as a pound, if he says he will supply X goods for X price, that's what you will get.

Try this link: http://www.oxydrive.co.uk/sale/sale-oxydrive-cst-ht-13ah.html

I know very little about kits, but the Oxygen MTB rides a treat, so as d8 says, this is a very cheap way into one. http://www.oxydrive.co.uk/sale/sale-oxydrive-cst-ht-13ah.html

I thought d8 was being pessimistic on front tyre wear. I've seen no accelerated wear on my Brompton Nano, although I suppose it has a relatively weedy motor. Tyre compound must play a big part. Cyclezee tend to fit Marathon Pluses, which is about the toughest, longest lasting tyre available...

There's a small envelope icon at the top right of the screen, next to your name. Press that to start a private conversation between the two of you.

I've seen a couple of converted tandems, so it can be done. You will need a motor with a bit of poke and biggish battery to match. In turn, this means you will need to keep an eye on all up weight. Much will depend on the weight of the rider and stoker, and how much luggage you want to carry...

Too early to judge the component quality on the Yamaha. I've had two Bosch bikes for a couple of years, and so far, so good. There have been reports of an internal nylon gear stripping on the Bosch system, but there are, in ebike terms, lots and lots of Bosch bikes, so a failure or two is...

A lot of kits come with the motor built into the wheel, so you get what you get. I lack the knowledge, patience, and will to build a motor into a wheel - it's quite an ask for someone new to kits and my suggestion is don't try it, although you may have all the qualities I don't have. Changing...

Three levels looks to be a blunt instrument to me, but as Emo says, the 20 gears on the Yamaha should give you more opportunity to eke out the battery. But by how much? A single Bosch battery doesn't go far enough for my longer rides - 50+ miles - and I suspect the Yamaha would be the same.

Terry, If you decide to 'research' this fully, you will literally drown in a sea of misinformation. Lots of well-known brands sell 250W ebikes speed limited to 15.5mph. The 'easement' to 250W is documented, and there appears to be no official interest in prosecuting riders. If you are uneasy...

Swap bikes.

I wonder if a fat bike would have carried Eddie across the unridable bits. Never tried one, so pure conjecture on my behalf, but I reckon a fat bike would be just the job on that terrain.

General wisdom would be a plain post for a ful sus bike, so like for like in your case. As ever with cycling, there is a dearer option - a dropper post. This enables you to drop the saddle for the more technical bits, so when the back end of the bike is pinged upwards, the saddle is less...

At least the pin didn't punch through the saddle - it's been known on cheap and nasty bikes.

If you have a root around the 'net you might find one on offer. There is a new series of MH7s with the newer Bosch motor, but I've not seen them stocked in the UK. http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.ave-bikes.de/&prev=search

My 20" wheel AVE MH7 is a Bosch crank drive, so has a torque sensor. It's also a semi-folder and a very capable bicycle - I've done several 50miles+ day rides on it. http://www.electricbikesales.co.uk/shop/electric-bikes-trikes/bosch/bosch-ave-mh-7-electric-bike/prod_810.html

Sounds (ho-ho) about right to me, assuming the wheel is reasonably true. I take it all the spokes cross, the friction at the cross helps to stop the spoke 'unwinding' in use. Radial and parallel designs look flash, but are not so clever in other ways.

Fill a bath with about five inches of cold water and slowly run the tyre through it. That ought to show any leak, particularly if you make sure there's plenty of air in the tyre before you start. The spoke needs to be a similar tension to all the others. Judging that comes from experience...