Search results

change the seat post for an unsprung one.

only if you have a number plate. getting the number plate is the problem.

dealers will push them if the margin is good.

I sometimes cycle without power and did not notice any drag on my BBS01. I like the idea of the Add-E but reckon it can accelerate the wear of your tyre.

woosh are in the process of signing up with Halfords.

woosh Big Bear LS http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?bigbear-ls

How much do you want to pay for the carbon belt? Freego Raptor 5.5Ah £799, 14.5kgs.

woosh have a special offer at the moment. £599 for their Sport-TS until the end of the month. http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?sport-ts

you will need to actively pedal for top speed, applicable to both crank drive and hub drive. Changing to max assist level is the only way to save your legs.

I have never been for scaremongering, there are plenty of youtube videos for that. The point I am making is, lipo cells do not have adequate protection against thermal runaway. To compensate, you will have to cut short the useful voltage range that your lipo is capable of. For e-bikes, the...

if lipo is safe for e-bikes, why aren't e-bike suppliers falling over themselves flogging them? there is a place for lipo, that's toys, not transport.

this is a typical 6C discharge curve, I suppose it is an approximate use of a 36V 5AH lipo pack on an BPM e-bike at full throttle climbing a hill: As you shouldn't charge it at over 3.7V nor discharge it below 3V, the useable portion on the horizontal axis is between 1 and 9. that graph shows...

that's a fair result. Can you post a link to the ad on ebay?

lipo is considered safe between 3.7V and 2.9V for electric vehicles against 4.2V to 2.5V for normal e-bike batteries. You pay for 10Ah and can only use 6-7Ah out of the pack and still have to alarm it. Another problem is voltage sag. If you draw a lot, then you have to up the voltage of the alarm.

RC lipo on a commuter bike is a no no. For cheap transports, weight saving is good but not to the detriment of reliability and capacity.

you should look for a donor bike with a large triangle to accommodate a downtube battery. Don't bother making the battery yourself, the saving is not worth it. Batteries are the weakest link in any e-bike kits and expensive to replace. A good supplier is what you need more, just in case your...

example of hydraulic brake sensor: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=59378 The Big Bear is a bit like a motorbike, you just throttle it up and it goes. No need to pedal nor change gear. The CD kit makes you select the right gear and encourages you to pedal. The reward is...

it's easy, plenty of members have done that. I made mine with a pair of 20p microswitches. You cut the cable of the supplied brake levers, solder the yellow and black wires to the miscroswitch. If you use use reed switches, buy the ones that have rectangular bodies, much easier to superglue to...

BBS02 500W conversion kit. http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?cdkit It won't blow your budget and it encourages you to pedal. The Big Bear could make you lazy.

It should be easy to extract the cell pack. This is a typical cell arrangement for the HL-01 (bmsbattery 08 case).