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check the gap between the spoke magnet and the sensor. If there is an LED on the sensor, it should flash when the magnet passes in front of the sensor.

I can add inserts for mounting accessories at virtually no additional cost. On battery: the difference in cost between 48V 12.5AH and 48V 15AH being small, so it will be whatever the maximum capacity to fit inside the battery case is available at the time. Stem: I usually fit adjustable promax...

I sell the 48V 20AH downtube battery for £300 delivery included in case anyone is interested. The cells are top notch A grade Panasonic 21700.

This is a very well thought out scheme! Congrats!

Check the batteries of your old meter just in case they need replacing. Still, the new meter is excellent for the money.

Bushes and inserts cost very little. I have added them before to mount a second battery to the Faro and moved the water bottle to the seat tube.

it's a multi-purpose bike. The target price (£1,299) does not leave me much room to pay for a new frame, so I have to pick a stock frame. I can still choose accessories (handlebars, seat post, saddle, mudguards, lights). I am a bit limited on rack and propstand. The frame has to be strong enough...

the prototype is already shipped, so no more changes for now. I may have to start over again from the helpful comments posted in this thread. Thank you all.

Hunt / nsandi offered 6.02% 1 year bond. That sold out quickly. Tax cuts will sadly work for the tories.

I can't see how sunak can fail. The whole of uk freedom loving press will spread the message of tax cut far and wide before the next election. Just read this: Jeremy Hunt sought to raise more money in a similar way in March, by increasing the targets on NS&I premium and savings bonds for the...

tell us what you don't like in the old system. We'll tell you what you need to spend. Don't just follow the advice because it's given to you by knowledgeable members. It is easy for them to cobble together parts and they don't even need to read the manuals but you will have to look after the kit...

you can replace the battery with one that has more capacity like a 36V 15AH or 20AH and keep the rest like they are. It's an easy 15 minute job. Soldering is not required.

Don't you mean governments spend too much money instead of spending only what taxes bring in? Governments borrow from its citizens and from foreigners. Debts owing to foreigners, are called external debts. The US owes 25 trillions dollars externally. The UK 9.2 trillions Pounds. Not many...

I can see in Cisco-Man and NealH the same tinkerer's spirit and ability but would the OP (rig the jig) be looking for the same flexibility?

but the whole set is chosen to hang well together. You'll end up killing prematurely what has not been upgraded.

I don't understand the advice given to the OP. He's got a fully working kit, he wants a bigger battery. Why change the controller?

check your multimeter first. Make sure it is on DCV and not AC. If the LCD is off when the bike stops then it's a battery fault. Otherwise, the fault is elsewhere: controller or sensor or cables.

I think he uses too long bolts for his rotor. The motor comes with 6 M5x10 rotor bolts. He probably used 11mm bolts from his old wheel and ruined the speed sensor inside. The motor is repairable.

The issue is caused by people who derestrict their bikes which voids the EN15194 conditions. Speed makes a huge difference in power requirement. You only need about 200W to maintain 15mph even when not pedalling or only ghost pedalling. So even if you have a 1000w bbshd fitted to your bike...

I reckon the reason we have been binging on public debts is because of the status of the Pound as reserve currency.