Search results

can you give me the URL of the cell loss table in post #19? Samsung 21700 50E discharge curve showing less than 10% difference in capacity between 4.1V and 4.2V Source: https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Samsung%20INR21700-50E%205000mAh%20(Cyan)%20UK.html

When one of the pistons seezes up, I suggest you change the caliper. The Tektro I use is E350. You don't have to use the same model of caliper. If you need help, contact support@wooshbikes.co.uk

Your battery gives out what your charger pushed in. There can't be 24% difference in energy between 4.1V and 4.2V.

That doesn't seem right.

They float over a 'dome' and will eventually line up with the pistons inside the caliper. The main thing is you should watch how the pistons move when you squeeze the lever. You want to be sure that the two sides push equally when you squeeze the lever.

My Brompton has a front hub motor. I never feel like it loses traction. Rear hubs have better traction but that's not equal to front hubs lose traction.

thousands of bikes with front hub motors are sold in the UK every year. They may lose traction on gravel but even CD bikes and bikes with rear hub lose traction there too. On normal roads, they behave like normal e-bikes. Just let the OP try and ask him later.

@Az. I use a 36V 10AH bag battery on my Brompton, so I do like small batteries.

The whole kit adds 6.5kgs to the bike. The main advantage of the 20AH battery is as guerney said, good for hills especially if you need the throttle and long life. Size-wise, the DP case is about the same as a typical HL battery.

hydraulic brakes noise is usually due to: 1. contaiminated surfaces. Check first that there is no oil leak around the piston then clean the rotor with isopropyl alcohol. Let it dry before testing. 2. The pads are not aligned parallel to the rotor. Remove the pads and check that the pads are worn...

I agree. It's not possible to fit a Bafang BBS01 or a TSDZ2 to the Thorn Raven because it has excentric bottom bracket and the lock nut for the BB is on the underside of the BB shell.

it's fairly straightforward to install, no drilling hole! Andy can get the kit out to you this afternoon and you could be riding electric this weekend!

Hello Jay, Front hub conversion is about the only practical for the Thorn Raven with Rohloff hub gears because of the lump under the bottom bracket. For 30-40 hilly Devonshire miles, I suggest you fit the XF07 with at least 15AH just in case you have to limp home on throttle alone. This XF07...

Yes. And you must have your phone + not lose the controller's digital ID. It's a daft feature on a bike. What happens if someone runs away with your phone or you left the phone back at the office? It's a case that the engineers do what the marketing people tell them because 'they sell'

They have a lot of assets, somebody will buy them out.

why? you've got already a very good bike. It's well presented like a plate of food at MoMa but it does not do anymore than my Faro that sells for a fraction of their S3.

I couldn't find out any more details about how the torque sensor on the DM01 and DM02 is made and how it works. It looks like on the video that those motors are still running on cadence sensor. Anyway, this kit's natural home is on the toseven thread.

When you get the bleed kit, try burping first. You'll waste a lot of brake liquid with each bleed which may not be necessary.

can you find me a picture of an original TSDZ2 broken axle? the pictures I found show thermal metal fatigue near the circlip. I don't think it's an issue of tolerance (like the ballbearing wobbles on the axle), it's more likely due to poor material or error in their casting process. I have...

only if you need rebalancing. The symptom is your battery cuts out before it's completely empty. On older BMS, the design wasn't too clever and the current to keep the BMS awake is much higher than now. This causes the battery to be out of balance once every few months. When the battery reaches...