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the only non-mechanical way of slowing you down while descending a hill is regen, using a direct drive motor as a brake and generator to convert mechanical energy to electricity, recharging your battery. I haven't heard of an independent device that you can fit to a bike. Let's see what happens...

I'd try trade in. If you don't ask, you won't know.

I don't understand their product selection. I would have thought that they would be more successful selling Haibikes than Momentums and also, which Mum would want to take their kids to school with the e-cargo?

you can probably fix it yourself. Check in order: 1) that the magnet disc is not jammed and rotates with the cranks. 2) that the sensor head is less than 2mm away from the magnets. 3) that the cable between the sensor and controller is intact. 4) that the connector inside the controller box is...

I think that the value to the licensee depends very much on which technical aspect(s) your patent was granted. If it covers a particular and critical way of the fold that the suitcase must have, then it has a lot of appeal. If it's just the special fold of the steering column that you have come...

Woosh zephyr-b has arrived. It's the best bike from Woosh so far. Front wheel has QR and the bike is folding. Front brake has 180mm rotor, rear 160mm rotor, both sensored and hydraulic. Nice weight balance with in-frame battery with lock. Puncture resist wide road tyres. King Meter LCD...

yes, ask Andy. He's tried it. Are you thinking what I am thinking? trading in the CDN for the B?

I believe the best brakes for hilly terrain are hydraulic brakes. Bikes with torque sensor don't need brake sensors but the rest does. It's a shame that only a few brands make a version with sensor like Tektro and Zoom. It seems the most economical compromise for home builts to be front...

if grease gets onto the contact area of the 3 pads, efficiency may be lost. Someone reported 'if you ride with them on down a long hill they get very hot, fade, the grease leaks or boils and they will then be very noisy.' http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=34273

100g - that would be enough grease for 300 services. As flecc said, you don't need to grease it - I would suggest give it a clean and refit. If it does not work, email Andy@wooshbikes.co.uk

the manual is SI-75J0H-EN_v1_m56577569830604374.pdf http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Nexus/InternalHub/SG_4R35/SI-4R35A-EN_v1_m56577569830613248.pdf I also found this http://sheldonbrown.com/rollerbrakes.html

are the pads dry to touch? and the inner side of the outer shell also dry? no rust particles? like this one?

Don't grease the roller brakes. You don't need to do anything to these brakes, not even adjusting the cable. They last for 5 years without doing anything. The usual cause for malfunction is water or grease getting inside. Dry the brakes with a hair dryer may help.

it depends on the controller. There is usually something on the controller's label saying how many Amps it will let through at most. Typically, for a 14A controller, you get about 20mph in ideal conditions.

do you have trouble adjusting the innercable? you can loosen the pinch bolt on the arm (bottom of the picture) and adjust the innercable in the usal way. The unit can be opened but there is no need to open the brake unit unless you accidentally drip oil into it. The Shimano service manual for...

Andy is a good guy.

you only need to turn on the 14V feed on the controller side to get the rest going, usually red to blue on the 5-pin connector to the LED/LCD panel.

Let Andy @ Woosh know about this - they'll sort it tomorrow.

I watched the video, I suspect a faulty pedelec sensor.

did you tell them about the problem with the pedelec sensor?