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@ OF: I gave Aliexpress as the popular source for Lithium ion batteries. These packs have BMS with over voltage charging protection, undervoltage protection, temperature cutout and output fuse as standard, some have anti-arcing switch as standard. Connecting them together is safe and easy...

the ignition switch goes to Batt+ (40V) and the big 2W resistor. The resistor is the entry point to power the 14V rail on the controller.

I suspect that the blue wire on connector 10 is the electric lock, but I am not sure. The only way to be sure is to follow the blue wire to the circuit board. If it goes to the big 2W resistor on the board, then it's the ignition wire. Then connecting red and blue on connector 10 turns on the...

I don't have one of those. Woosh sell the 36V 15AH battery + charger for £315. http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?batteries#batkit There are other vendors on ebay too: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-2014-Model-36v-11ah-water-bottle-mount-Lithium-ion-electric-bike-battery-/311003291968 You have a 500W...

Ig you live in the UK, you can't register and insure this bike, so I'd say sell it and buy a new bike.

it depends very much on whether the packs have individual BMSes built inside. If you buy lipo (from hobbyking), they don't have internal BMSes then 2 x 18.5V 8AH is easier to control and alarmed, if you buy Lithium ion (from aliexpress) then 4 x 18.5V 4AH are more resistant to shock damage.

this sort of batteries comes with lead, charger and fuse. See the plastic case on the seat post? the controller goes there. The controller box does not have to go up that high, probably can be tucked in between the battery and the seat post. If you want to keep the controller in a triangle bag...

bottle battery to go on the down tube. Like this:

I am looking at this one, quite close to yours: it will take a while to check for discrepancies. Connector 1 seems to be the electric lock, it has the Battery + on the thick red and small red (No 2). You can verify this with a DVM, using a black wire as 0V reference, the red wire on...

post a picture of the label on the controller case for identification.

that may be normal. Some controllers charge up their capacitor when connected. If your bike works again, I would not worry about it.

I always put grease where there is corrosion.

The left slot looks corroded. One of the two leaf springs seems to have been pushed in too much. I would take the back cover off, nudge the pushed in spring out with a small blade and try again.

you won't know for sure until you take the lid off.

you would have more choice of bikes if you put the dog in a trailer.

does it knock when you apply power and the wheel is off the ground? If you can hear this, then it's possible that one of the cogs in the gearbox has a damaged tooth.

One of the batteries may have become totaslly discharged after 2 miles, having been more discharged than the rest. when you wire the batteries in series, you need to balance their charge to bring all the batteries to the same state of charge. The simplest way is to discharge the batteries to the...

Simon, for hilly terrains, you need a big fat BPM motor. Look into a BPM conversion - like this one: http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?hubkits

You have ruled out the cranks and I am out of suggestion. There is a sprag clutch inside the motor, the clutch has a leaf spring that could make this kind of noise. If it does not slip, then the clutch is working. To be honest, I never heard that clicking noise before when I tried the CD bikes...

positive spirit, crE. Give me a modern tablet and I don't know how to use it leave alone strip it down and fix it. With bikes, I found that I have to do each thing three or four times before getting the hang of it. Then there is the satisfaction that I am in control and I won't need to wait for...