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The indicator lights will always show that your battery is empty because you get all three at 54v and none or flashing red at 39v.

You have to measure it to see if it's faulty, not smell it!

You charge these ebike batteries at 0.2C, which would be 3.4 amps for a 17Ah one. You can probably go as high as 4 amps. The charge mosfet in the BMS is normally rated at 5A, so any higher puts that at risk of blowing unless you open your battery to see what's in the BMS. Also, any charge fuse...

Before you go as high as 20A, can your battery supply that much current? Soldering the shunt is the easiest and cheapest way to get more current. Solder 20% of its length to go from 15A to 18A. When connectors don't match, cut them off and solder the wires. Whenever you buy a KT controler...

Cut it off and solder the wires. If you find the matching one, you'll have to solder it anyway, so save yourself some time and trouble.

I forgot about one I had, but one above just reminded me. My friend and I had had about 3 pints towards the end of a long ride. It made me us both surprisingly drunk. After leaving the pub, we had to negotiate a very tight zig-zag path up a steep bank. I can can remember looking at it and...

P07 is 1 or 6. Nobody knows which. Only you will know from your speed display.

Rather than seal, I prefer to leave a way out for any water that gets in. I've seen two many drowned controllers after people attempted to seal them.

I'm pretty sure that's for the speed sensor. The answer is 1 or 6. It should be obvious which to use when the speed on the lcd is 1/6 of what it should be, right, or 6 times the speed.

Riding along on a cycle track when a twig got caught between the mudguard and tire. It was making a whirring noise so l started slowing down to fix it. When l had slowed to about 10 mph, it gripped, pulled the mudguard under itself, which jammed the wheel and sent me straight over the bars into...

Yes, one even spontaneously caught fire because of it while it was switched off at the LCD.. His controller wasn't properly encapsulated. Water got in and shorted one of the mosfets, which happen to sit right at the bottom where the water accumulates. Lucklly, the owner was nearby when it...

Yes, voltage only affects the speed of the motor. It's current ot total power that would harm one. With your weight, any motor will be fine up to about 328 rpm. Those speeds are for 26" wheels. For 20", you need proportionally faster. For sustained speeds of 32 km/h, you need a 328 rpm 36v one...

No,all Chinese suppliers.

If you fit a rear motor in a Dahon or tern, you'll need a cassette version, which would normally have the suffix C or CST on its designation, like Q100C, AKM100CST, etc. They're a bit wider than freewheel motors, but you can normally get them in as long as the frame isn't too stiff, so avoid a...

Is that a problem? I wish my bike worked without the battery. As above, ask on Endless-sphere or the German pedelec forum, where there are guys that have good knowledge of the Bionx systems.

If you don't want to solder or cut wires, that won't work. Do what I said further up. Cut about 6" of innertube; slide it over the wires and connectors; put a tight cable tie around the top end and a looser one at the bottom; cable tie the whole lot, top and bottom, to the frame.

Before you start, I don't recommend putting a heavy battery like that in a panier bag unless you can find some way of locking it down.

Brilliant.

Sounds like a blown mosfet. You have to open up the controller compartment to test. It could be a blown hall sensor, but that's not very common. Measure the resistance between each phase wire and the positive battery wire, then repeat for the negative. The readings should be in the KOhm range.

Maybe you did, but it's not true. There are some things they can charge you with if you're completely legless, but they have no impact on your driving licence. They can't breathalise you, so you'd have to be drunk beyond all reasonable doubt for them to do anything..