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You didn't say whether you checked the voltage coming out of the charger, nor whether you confirmed that your meter is still reading correctly. Assuming that they're OK, you need to check the cell voltages again as soon as the charger goes green.

We haven't got a lot to go on, but it looks like one of those scooters, like the Eskuta. See the rusty chain and single speed freewheel. Those scooters are always blowing the controllers because they slow right down going up steep hills and you can't really assist them with the pedals.

Is the speed on the LCD correct? How do you know the number of magnets is 1? Are you using an external speed sensor? Last guy that had this problem had 6 magnets in his motor,

You need to show all the settings. You probably have an error in the way the speed is calculated, like the wrong number of magnets set for the speed sensor.

The problem is that your battery cannot provide the current that the controller demands. What is the maximum current written on the controller's label? What is the continuus current that the BMS allows? Assuming that you have compatible controller and BMS, recycled cells are a complete waste...

The logical place to tap into battery voltage us in the controller's compartment.

I've been riding, testing and repairing just about every type of ebike for ten years. I don't need to do any internet research thank you, and I don't agree that a mid motor is the best solution for riding on the road, especially if you want a throttle.

Yes, the thing that's connected to the motor cable. Sì, la cosa collegata al cavo motore

If you can solder and do wiring, you could replace it with a normal controller, LCD and PAS. Eventually, your torque sensor will pack up and you'd get more expence. A normal controller would be more reliable.

Almost certainly, your motor controller is blown and you need a new one. Quasi certamente, il controller del motore è soffiato e ne hai bisogno di uno nuovo.

These posts always intrigue me. Why do you think you need a mid motor?

You can grind afew mm off the back of the crank without any harm. That's the quickest and simplest solution.

There's always some on Ebay.otherwise try these people: https://powerbikes.uk/ebike-parts-and-spares/misc-e-bike/sr-suntour-hesc-chain-set-ats-torque-sensor__30472

A while back, people were cheering because Katie Hopkins had been booted off Twitter. Tommy Robinson had been languishing on Telegram with only 30,000 followers. KTH and other prominent people kicked off Twitter started up again on the almost unheard of at the time Parler. It bought massive...

The battery uses comms with the motor, so you can't fit a standard BMS. A year ago or so, there was a thread on the German Pedelec forum, where somebody reverse engineered the code and came up with a way of using an arduino to do the comms in order to use a standard BMS or battery.

There are a few bikes with 24" wheels, which would probably suit you better than the 26" wheel ones. : https://www.juicybike.com/electric-bikes/facelia-nexus3?gclid=Cj0KCQiA2af-BRDzARIsAIVQUOcZC1lQQvK80j02yv47vmUYEjcGML4qHWVUAZAtyGDWaZgevWqcGl0aAsLGEALw_wcB...

Your photo isn't very clear, but something looks very wrong. The bit that's clipped into the bottom bracket is still in there. The whole assembly should lift off together. Pull the rest of it off, then it should be more obvious what the problen is. Basically, there's an outer piece that clips...

The Cyclone motor already has a clutch and a reduction system in it, so all you need to do is mount it on a plate with a pivot at one end.

How many wires? Was it a torque sensor?

By adding daft constraints to your project, you won't get the best solution, but I would have tyhought that the Woosh 48v SWX02 kit wouldbe more than adequate. For dirt tracks and moors, I'd have chosen a full suspension bike as a donor. The Vengeance is more suited to the road and light trails.