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It'll be a motor with a sprocket on it that clamps on either the downtube or the seat tube with some sort of adjustable clamping system. It'll differ from other chain-drives by having an included torque sensor, which could be as simple as a spring-loaded idler wheel or some sort of load cell...

As I said, you won't be able to buy one like that. Whatever you get will require some adjustment to the wiring. Ideally, you should get one with some sort of battery indicator, otherwise you'd have to fit a voltmeter or separate battery indicator. The switch is optional. You could use a switch...

Why do you need the 750w version? If it's because you want to go fast, that cheapo battery is probably not the best. If you don't want to go fast, the 250w BBS01 might be more suitable, and it's legal. You should get the gear sensor, whichever version you get. It's more or less essential for...

In the first vid, at 1:09 and 1:13, the chain goes well above the chainwheel, but at 0:55, it's only just above it, so two completely different systems.

As it drives the top chain run, it'll have an idler sprocket as a torque sensor athat will also give the function of wrapping more chain around the drive sprocket.

The motor in that Youtube vid is a chain-drive. In two shots, you can see that the top run of the chain doesn't go to the top of the chain-wheel. Interestingly, it's completely different to what's on that woman's road bike in my picture above.

Why do you think your PAS is not compatible?

It looks like a friction drive, which wouls account for the noise. Another possibility, though I don't think this is it, is that there is a gear ring attached to a face of the chainwheel that's driven by a motor. That weird cogwheel in the top photo could be part of a reduction system on a...

Where do you live?

As I said, you can feel the temperature on the bleed resistors when the bleed transistors are open. You don't need a meter. Your charge voltage is very close to when the bleed resistors are open, like within the margin of measurement error, so it could be that they are in fact doing some balancing.

Yes, that's why in many instruction manuals it says to leave the battery on charge for a long time for the first charge.

You don't need a data sheet. Put your fingers on the bleed resistors to see how hot they get.

Yes I have - whenever I do a capicity test on a battery. At 10 amps most get pretty warm after a while, that's without much sag. Take a healthy 18650 with a typical internal resistance of .075 ohms. At 10 amps, a 36v 40 cell battery will have 2.5 amps going through each cell. The heating is...

Ohm's law. Voltage drop =current x resistance or current = voltage drop/resistance Heat = current squared x resistance, so heat = voltage drop squared/resistance Heat goes up with the square of the voltage drop. Unless you've drilled holes in your battery case, the cell-pack is very well...

The more a battery sags, the more it heats up and the less it's affected by outside temperature.

The voltage is held on at 42v while the green light is on. That's what provides the charge to balance the cells. The BMS switches off the charging if it uses a separate charge control mosfet, but the bleed resistors will be open, which drains the battery down and switches back on the charge mosfet.

It looks like a throttle connector. I can't think of anything else it could be. It's always best to check with a meter rather than take a chance.

Whatever controller you get, ask again if you need help on how tom wire it.

You can use any throttle you want, but whichwver one you get, you'll need to do some wiring. The Cyclamatic uses a standard throttle, but has it wired in a unique way. It uses the switch to power both the throttle an PAS, so the PAS connector is without the red 5v. The 5v comes from a separate...

It'll be too wide an cause too much off-set in the rim.it can be done, but you have to dish the wheel some more, which will give you much looser spokes on the left side.