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In theory, you can use any motor, but your frame is designed specifically for the Suntour one that has anti-torque lugs, so I'm not too sure how other motors would fit. You'd need to show clear photos of the drop-outs. Your photo of the nicked wire is out of focus. can you see bare copper in there?

Your photo id from too far away for me to see clearly, but it looks like 8 speed free-hub gears, which means that you need a cassette motor unless you want to go down to 7-speed, so back the Woosh kit or one of these...

This one with their £187 48v battery would be good and cheap. https://yosepower.com/collections/all-collections/products/48v-350w-26-rear-motor-kit-for-freewheel What gears do you have on the back of your bike? That determines what type of motor to get. This one has the desirable KT...

IMHO, that won't be a good kit for the job. I doubt that thebattery will get you there and back unless you spend £400+ on the battery. You'd be better off with a normal 250w geared motor kit. If you can afford it, the Woosh 48v SWX02 kit would be a good choice, then there are various offerings...

Disconnect the motor connector to see if there's a difference. If the motor frees up, there's a problem with the moror cable or in the controller.

The answer is no, though your controller will use about 4W. The motor will be generating when you go fast downhill, so if your controller has regen, it could be overheating the BMS.

I've got the Huawei GT 2e now £112. It has its own GPS with much better battery life than any of the others, so using the GPS for biking is a realistic proposition. Everything about it is better than a Fitbit. Normal battery life is 10 days.

It might be worth giving these people a call to see what they reckon. https://www.performancelinebearings.com/

Which cable is nicked? Here's the torque sensor: https://powerbikes.uk/ebike-parts-and-spares/misc-e-bike/sr-suntour-hesc-chain-set-ats-torque-sensor__30472

Yes, but they can't be mechanically more efficient.

Has your controller got the self-learning wires, sometimes called itelligent idrntification or something like that? They're normally two single green wires. If so, did you do the self-learning procedure.

That's normal. you should feel the gears turning, but it shouldn't be notchy or stiff. It's the back of the pins you have to check. When you plug it back in, does the motor work again or is it still Kaput?

Some people use a motorbike cable throttle to work a remote ebike one. Why not fit the PAS and have done with it?

This guy has done a lot of research over the years: https://avdweb.nl/solar-bike/solarbike/maxun-solar-bike

Without seeing which motor it is, I can't say because direct drive and geared motors behave completely differently.

You will soon.

Every year, world leaders and multi-billionaires go to Davos in Switzerland and discuss what they're going to do with the world, like how it should be governed, how they're going to keep it stable socially, financially, ecologically, and medically. You've probably seen it on the news each time...

Try it first, then, if you find any shortcomings, figure out the solution you need to make things better. Don't try to solve problems that don't exist.

Twist throttles are the worse for breaking. The stop at full throttle is only thin plastic. The mechanism at that end is more or less the same regardless of whether it's a thump, half or full throttle. The problem with the full throttles is that you have more force on the twist when you hit a...

There won't be anything wrong with the motor. Most likely, it's the connector under the left side chainstay. Before spending loads of money, try cutting off the connectors and soldering the wires together. When you expose the connector, you might see something wrong, like a pin backed out or it...