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What are the blue wires for? Assuming that they're not self-learning or reversing wires, and as long as your controller doesn't have auto phase and hall sequence recognition, you can reverse the motor by swapping over the green and yellow phase wires and the blue and green hall wires. The...

That leaves two possibilities then: Either there's an internal short on the 5v or the 5v regulator is shot. Typical cause of 5v regulator getting damaged is a misconnection, like when you have the wrong wire sequence on the throttle or Pas connector, where the 5v is connected to the ground for...

It's over for Biden. How are they going to get out of this? 10 more days of showing what's on the laptop a bit each day with a lot worse to come. Apparently, the main bombshell is going to drop on day 10. Giuliani says that they're doing it like that so the Biden camp can't lie about it because...

The control panel works independently from everything else. All it needs is battery power to switch on and work. It gives that error code when it's on and working, but it can't communicate with the controller's cpu. There are a lot of possible reasons that communication can't occur so you have...

Your controller and display are not particularly good. You can replace both with an equivalent set for less than the price of a C300, or you can pay a bit more and get a much better system. The C300 is made by Bigstone. Most likely, any of the common Bigstone LCDs will work, but I never tested...

Duplicate thread. Please post teplies in the other one.

Logical reason is that your controller has a pair of self-learning wires that you forgot to disconnect. Show photos of all the wires and connectors.

Drag from a hub-motor is shown in the vid below. See how long your Haibike's wheel spins. Also, what you don't realise is that the Haibike's drag is in the crank, so you only get it when you pedal, not when you freewheel. You can test it by taking the chain off and spinning the pedals. A...

Ontario is a bit far to take my dead lithium batteries.

Let's get one thing straight in case people end up making wrong decisions based on what they read. Range has very little to do with the the type of bike or motor. What affects the range the most is how hard you pedal. You have a motor that can convert energy stored in a battery to suppliment...

I didn't notice that other cable. If it's pinched and shorted. I would say there's a pretty good chance that it's the source of your problems. I'm not sure it's damaged where tied, like it shows in the photo, but could be damaged somewhere else. It can be easily eliminated by disconnecting it...

Something is pulling the 5v down. Disconnect everything except the LCD and the battery. Switch on and check the 5v again. If it rises to 5v, plug in the motor, check again, etc, until you identify the culprit. If it stays low, something is wrong with your controller.

That's why you have to measure the 5v. It shows that the controller is switched on.

Sorry, I haven't a clue what you mean.

The number of ebikes you need is N+1, where N is the number you already have.

Did you check the 5v? You can't use the ebike tester for that.

It's an illusion. The illusion is that you think that it's your pedal power that is propelling you when the motor is on. When the motor cuts, it gives the illusion of riding through treacle because, you lose the assistance that was enabling you to maintain your speed.

Maybe the pre-start heating coils aren't getting fully up to temperature. Ask them to check them when you take it in.

i think we told you that you need an LCD to set it up. Post#24.

It's a bespoke controller that you can only get from Momentum. If it ever dies, you'll probably have to replace it with a normal controller and use a normal PAS and LCD.