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Wilier are an old Italian manufacturer since1906, nothing wrong with the name or brand. Just one not often heard of among the main stream names we know, my brother has one with steps drive ne bought it about 4 years ago.

The 4 wire/white connector is for torque sensing BB, you have to bung it and get a normal cadence type controller or buy a TS BB and hope it might work once wired up.

I think one has to put things in to perspective a little, and circumstances to be taken into account. That crash was late after noon/early evening certainly well after dusk, dark and busy road with cars appearing to be going quite quickly (speed always looks faster on camera), driver of said...

That's the issue with footage the speed viewed always looks faster, I'm not saying you weren't doing 25km/h. One will ned to go over the bike with a fine tooth comb to check for damage.

Not riding a bicycle they aren't but looking at your video they might do so as the footage could be used against you, they could deem it as so for the conditions and the speed that looks greater then you say.

My current need is to find a dedicated cargo bike to suit my needs and also in the middle of enlarging my bike trailer loading board. Narrowed the bike find currently down to 3 or 4 bikes.

:eek: Very fortunate lad to get away without serious injury. These typical accidents known as smidsy or the driver not realising the speed of an approaching light/bicycle more so in the dark, it is also known that drivers pulling out simply don't register bicycles even with lights. Following my...

One with a 20 or 25a continuous rating (not peak rating) the current draw is 15 -18a for the controller.

For ebike use 3.2v would be 0 - 10% most BMS will cut at or before this value. 75% approx. 3.9v. 50% approx. 3.7v. 25% approx. 3.45v

A lot of us ebikers do our little bit by cycling, I for one replace most of my car use (99%) with my bikes. If only viridor would allow bikes with trailers into the recycling depot then I wouldn't need the car tbh.

For a bicycle it looks impractical to mount, ok if you ride with a perspex windshield. Might work on bent/tadpole where one might have a wind shield for aerodynamics but not a cycle.

That concave mirror looks good but a bit impractical for a bicycle.

Batteries very rarely have graphs as linear as that and it is very far from typical when a load is applied. This LG mh1 is very different. Samsung 29e LG hg2

Motor cycle front rear camera kit suffers from terrible screen glare so pretty useless I found. By all means use cameras to record events but a mirror is your best friend to see rearward approaching vehicles.

The continuous current is 25a for the BMS so a 22 or 25a controller will be work, I would likely opt for a 22a model.

42v not 44v , if you get 44v reading for a 36v battery then your meter is way out.

For knees issues and riding the worst one can do is grind away in high gears, keep the cranks spinning with a high cadence. If one can't keep a high cadence in high gears then opt to spin faster in a lower easier gear for less strain on the knees.

The KT systems for instance only give 13% total current available in PAS 1, the power is about 70 - 110w depending on the current spec of the controller they come in ranges of 12a - 25a for the mostly used models. 70 -110w doesn't seem much but is about same if not more then the average rider...

If using ebike to help with fitness then one has to opt for a TS PAS system for crank drive or for a current control (torque simulation) with hub drive. With the former one has to input more effort to get more out of the system, with both ignore high power levels except for steep hills. Minimal...

Better off with the 8 over the 11 purely for reliability, if it had been an 8 for that price or less I would have jumped in and got a couple. One reason why the 11 hub is cheap they simply can't shift them because of the high price initially and reliability, if one had a DI2 11 hub already then...