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It's unlikely that the cells themselves will be that low. There's a management board inside that shuts down when any cell goes below 2.9v to protect them. It's always worth opening the battery and measuring them to see what's going on. It could also be that the battery has entered some sort...

It might be an excellent bike, but it's not really suited to that style of riding. It's very inefficient. It's designed for off-road riding. I'd keep it as it is and get a more suitable donor bike for conversion. I made a really nice one out of a bike I rescued from a skip - full suspension...

What sort of riding are you going to use it for - commuting, touring, shopping or what?

The last thing you want to do is put put a big DD motor in the rear of your bike. it would completely ruin it, if it were possible, but it isn't. carbon frames can't take the motor torque, so you can only fit a middle motor, and even then, you're going to have to do some complicated fabrication...

It should have a 20 amp ceramic fuse. You can use a glass one if you want. i'm not sure of the length. Try a mains fuse to see if it's the right length, otherwise cut a bit of stick until it feels the right length, then measure it. In some batteries the fuse isn't connected because the BMS has...

Surely, you should be able to see where it was soldered to om the connector. Also, there would be a corresponding wire on the matching connector.

You should look for a bike with a near horizontal crossbar if you want to tie your rods to it. Look at the Woosh Faro or back to the idea of a conversion.

What do you want to do with it? There's all sorts of complications with a bike like that due to the bottom bracket type and size. Unless you have really good DIY skills, it would be better to find another donor bike with conventional 68mm BB.

It's just a battery - no motor, no controller nor other bits.

Then the problem is between your battery and the controller. If you have to use the charger to get the battery going again, it's probably something inside the battery. You'll have to open it and measure the cell voltages. That 35 amp controller won't have done the BMS any good. Let's hope that...

I already answered that in your intro thread. Didn't you read it?

Don't just look at or reconnect the motor cable. There's a marked line that the outer must reach. The problem is that the connector goes tight before it reaches the line, leaving a bad connection. Without a speed sensor signal, the controller will switch to using a motor hall sensor to get a...

Most likely cause is the motor connector not all the way in, which is a very common problem. There's a marked line. The outer must line up with the line. If it's not that, then look at the other end of the motor cable, which is in the back part of the frame. you have to remove the battery...

4 wires in there. Easiest would be to cut the cable and solder in a length of 4-way. Why would you want to mess about with connectors, when it's the same number of solder joints...

That's not right. I think you have the right idea, but it's the wrong way round. Watt-hours are a measure of how much charge is in the battery. Watt-hours are a constant size. You can take them out quickly or slowly. If you have a 400Wh battery and take out 350Wh, you have 50Wh left, regardless...

I'd give all those up for a nice woman to love.

These things are made for the RC hobby, where they use lipos. The minimum voltage is important. Show which one you have.

Does the LCD go off when it cuts out?

My question still stands. The guy asked how to do it. Why don't you help him? Just as an aside, we have a forum member Cwah. When he first came on the forum, he didn't know that you couldn't undo a hex screw with a flat-bladed screwdriver, but we helped him learn. He went on to make 3,000 posts...

Voltage is not a good measure of capacity because it doesn't go down linearly, and it also varies with current.