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A 36v lithium-ion battery has 10 cell-groups. They each need to be the same voltage otherwise you lose capacity. There is a management pcb (BMS) that takes care of balancing provided that you fully charge each time. There is a wire from each cell group that goes to the BMS so that it can check...

That seems to be a common problem with the Yamaha system.

Next time you want to order something ask us first.

You can only do that if you have the BBS** with the longer shaft option, otherwise you're limited to about 5mm max from the bare edge of the BB shell. If you pull the motor too far to the right, you can't get the nut on the other side. As I said, you must measure the width. Any more than 78mm...

How many teeth on your rear sprocket? You can go down to 16. I think you have a 22T, which gives you loads of options: https://www.evanscycles.com/shimano-nexus-sprocket-EV174104

Put one of these in your charge lead, then you'll know precisely - much cheaper than a new charger https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Precision-rc-130A-watt-meter-and-power-analyzer-LCD-gt-power-60V-UQRDUK-DS/392753053972?hash=item5b71e80114:g:p3UAAOSwHwNbjOIz

A throttle doesn't work without a lever or something to twist. How do you operate that thing? The 5 wires are red=battery voltage, black=ground, blue=input to switch, yellow=left output and green=right output. With the switch in the middle position you get no output.

Where's the lever? It has a two position switch that needs three wires (one connector) and a battery display that needs two wires (other connector). That doesn’t leave anything for the a throttle that needs at least two more wires!

You're not understanding. It's the width of the swinging arm right next to the BB that's concerning us. If it's wider than 68mm, you'll have a problem to solve. It looks like it is in the photo, but the angle isn't the best to see.

They all have the same spline. You need one that will clear the axle. You can get any one you want as long as the whole is big enough. Now we're back to post #3 and we can do it all again.

If you read back through the forum, you'll find an account of one Big Bear owner that had such a problem with front wheel traction that he had to do some modifications to improve it. My first electric bike was a moderately powered front wheel motor type. I had to get of and push on some...

It depends on what you buy. Typically, a rack battery comes with its frame. You,ll have to transfer the controller to from itsold compartment to the new one. The frames always fit on the right side, but sometimes you have to make a spacer to clear the disc on the left side. Alternatively, you...

That's good. I'm glad it's sorted. If a motor phase wire touches anything on the 5v rail, it can wipe out every 5v device simultaneously. What you had was bad enough, but it could have been worse.

It has a weird frame. I don't think you can change it.

The DNP one fits. I think this is one, though the price is a bit steep. I used to sell them on Ebay for £3...

They're standard Chinese bikes with standard Chinese parts. It sounds like your charger isn't working. You will have to test the battery and the charger with a meter to find out what's wrong.

Now you have to go through the motor phase and hall wire combinations until it works. You can't always connect colour to colour.

I think more likely it's an electrical sync problem, like the hall sensor connection or a phase wire connection .

No, you'd need to change the motor controller as well as the control panel.

Only the dealer can do that.