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if you open the case, it should be obvious. NiHms are big cylindrical things like C-cells

Why don't you show him? It's not exactly difficult. He's been on this forum installing electric bike kits, etc for 7 years. He's not a dunce. That's what the forum is for.

Minimum voltage.

If the motor cuts when operated by the throttle, there are a lot of possibilities. You can eliminate a lot by answering this question.What happens to the battery indicator lights during the cut-out? If they go off, it's on the battery side of the controller, and if they stay on, it's on the...

Ah is the fuel gauge. If you run your battery down from full, you'll see how many Ah you have in your battery. That takes into consideration your riding style as well as any measurement errors, and it will be fairly constant. For each new ride with a charged battery, the meter will show how...

That's not right. He has a swinging arm pivot that he said is wider than the BB and is right next to it.

It's the reduction gear housing that will ne the first thing to touch. The chainwheel is further out. The only thing you need to measure is the width at the front pivot over the BB. If it's more than 78mm, you'll need the longer shaft version of the motor.

You don't have to test under load for balancing that just shows if you have weak cells. A 2005 battery is not likely to be very good. Is it NiHm or Lithium?

Not really. 60/40 tin/lead flux cored solder should be OK. Don't use lead-free solder.

It's all in the wrist. Actually, its done with smoke and mirrors and a lot of love.

That doesn't sound right at all. the throttle itself has three wires. On your old throttle they were red 5v, black 0v and white signal. they're the three wires that need to be connected. the other wires are for the switch and the battery display. The green wire on your old throttle is the one...

The mosfets are OK. Your results didn't show anything untoward. the main thing is that each of the three phases should give the same results. Also, I personally don't believe that there's a high chance of them getting damaged during a spin-out anyway. Your main task is to replace the faulty...

The battery is a standard part that you can get from Ebay. Search for "36v bottle battery". As you have a separate controller, you can use any downtube battery you want, which gives you the chance to increase range, reduce weight, get more power or whatever you want.. They come with the frame...

https://www.reallyusefulbikes.co.uk/kalkhoff/impulse-chainring-38t-black-cs9dr

I was going to say exactly that, which makes it even more stupid, but I didn't feel like typing it all out. Thanks for saving me.

Which controller do you have? If it's a KT, set P2=1. If it shows no speed at all, there's a problem with your speed sensor. Fit an external one if you were using one in the motor. if your display shows zero for 5 minutes, the sleep timer will shut you down, in which case lengthen or eliminate...

Road bike for exercise, electric bike for utility. If you can do your rides only on level 1 or eco, you can manage it on a road bike because the pedal effort is about the same. You might want to lower the gearing on the road bike if you have a lot of hills. The gearing on older ones is normally...

You have to be 14 to legally ride an ebike.

Before buying the charger, measure the cell voltages. If it's already balanced, you won't need the charger.

You can put them between your battery and controller too so that you can see exactly how much battery you've used and how much you have left. It's very accurate, not like those stupid estimating systems you get with Bosch type systems. I used to have one on all my bikes because I was interested...