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Which one is it? There are hundreds of different ones.

What percentage do you reckon you did? At 25%, the difference should be noticeable.

Yes, I am well-informed. I know the guy that owns the company. His name is Ding. I've been to his factory and had meals out with him. There are two versions of the NCM Moscow controller locations. Earlier ones had it in the downtube, and later ones are mounted externally under the bottom...

No need for hysterics. Nobody is going to die because they changed their gear cable, As I said, I've done it on three or 4 bikes, so have other forum members done it. It works perfectly!

If all connectors are sealed, it's not easy. You'd probably have to solder a wire to the controller's pcb and run it out.

All throttles can be taken apart, but some are very hard because the retaining barbs are right up the inside and you have to lift all three at once. Sometimes if you pull hard enough, they pop apart, but you need a good grip. Thumb throttles are easier because the barbs are accessible. You have...

KT is a better controller. It has current control on the PAS (Torque simulation), it's smoother, it has faster response and programmable current, plus it has a raft of other features.

That's not right. Is the chain going round when you pedal? The battery shouldn't go down when switched off.

A guy started another thread about his replacement Powabyke throttle working backwards. I asked him to come here and explain how he wired it. All you have do then is decide whether you're going to reverse the magnets or use a springless RH throttle on the left side.

20 miles is about right for that 24v battery To get more power, you add a blob of solder to the shunt, which is that staple-shapped thing at the bottom of the photo. The idea is to solder up one side to the corner. The power increase is in direct relation to how much you solder. If you solder...

If it were my bike, I'd chuck the controller and display. For around £70, you can get a nice KT controller, LCD3 and throttle, then you're master of your own destiny regarding speed, power and throttles.

We have another thread running on the same subject, where you can see the options available to you. It would be nice if you could show how you've wired yours up to help the other guy. Read my posts in particular. https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/model-identification.38115/

The actual throttle only uses three wires. The other wires are for other functions. One wire carries battery voltage and is used to work the indicator lights. I heard that early Powabykes had some special safety feature, so had two grounds, but I've never studied one in detail. We got close one...

They're chalk and cheese. Once you've had hydraulic brakes, you'll never want anything else. It's the most significant performance improvement you can make for your bike. You might need to do something with your brake switches. Since I changed to hydraulic brakes, I've never used switches, but...

If you have a 12 magnet disc, try pressing out every other magnet to make it a 6 magnet one. you can always put them back if it doesn't solve your problem.

These people do replacement motors that might be a bit cheaper. they can even get the 20 mph US versions: https://www.pro-cycling-golla.de/E-Bike_Ersatzteile/Antriebe/Bosch_Gen_3_-_Active/-Plus/Performance/Motor_und_Zubeh%C3%B6r.html

Three wires means brushless. That controller would have been pretty useless anyway. You need one with several levels of pedal assist, ideally sine-wave with an LCD. Please show actual pictures of the bike, the motor and anything else you have.

If both throttle and PAS cut at the same time, there are two possible causes I can think of. 1. Faulty operation of a brake switch. That can be due to the rider riding with a finger on the brake or a sticky switch. In either case, disconnecting the brakes from the controller will solve it and...

Remove the cable completely. Cut an outer to the length you need to run all the way from the shifter to the derailleur stop. You can route it wherever you want, like along the crossbar and down the seat-stay. Thread the inner through it and clamp to the derailleur. Maybe a couple of cable ties...

Assuming cable brakes, when the pads wear the gap between them opens up. You adjust that with the screw on the inside of the caliper. There is often a tiny grub screw in the edge that locks that adjustment, so you have to find it and unlock before you adjust the main screw. Adjusting the gap...