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That's blatant lies. You should be ashamed of yourself.

I left the forum and cancelled my account. The only way back was with a new one. That makes two incarnations. One and one makes two. Didn't you learn that at school? I've never done anything illegitimate on this forum, nor have I ever pretended to be someone I'm not. Sorry if being rich is a...

I wasn't asking you, Flecc. I was asking a newcomer how to find their way here. Suspicion level has now gone up since Mr Shitpass didn't answer a simple question with a simple answer. I still await enlightenment. Flecc, I know you to be a thinking person with a lot of experience of all the new...

Very interesting. Can you tell us how you found you way to this thread as there are no links to it in the forum anywhere? That makes me suspicious.

OK, I'll bugger off for another 6 months and leave you to the troll. I don't like to hurt people's feelings. No more need for the snowflakes to melt either when anybody mentions 16 mph.

Always pedal as hard as you can - not so much to make you gasp for breath, but enough to keep you breathing hard. Do lots of miles. As your legs become stronger, use lower level of assist until you can go everywhere on the lowest level. At that point, you can dispense with your electric bike and...

You should measure the current at low speed, not high speed. To check your maximum current, lift the motor wheel off the ground and spin it up with the throttle, While holding it at full throttle, slow the wheel right down with the brake and read the current. Don't stop the wheel completely and...

Everything looks about right. The BMS in your battery is only rated at 30 amps, so don't try and replace the controller with a 35 amp one. The speed they quote in your kit's listing is around 28 mph. That could be the no-load speed, in which case 25 mph would be about the right on-the-road...

I'm thinking now that it's probably something outside of the BMS and cell-pack. Check all the solder joints on the main terminals and check the terminals for signs of burning or anything like that.

They were sold as a set with controllers as an upgrade or replacement of crappier or broken ones. they were good at the time, but are not very good by today's standard. Going back to basics. Unless the LCD or controller's manual tells you the rating of the brown wire, you have to treat it with...

Let's talk about what's important. A non-motor axle is 9mm or 10mm. A geared hub-motor will have a 12mm axle with two milled flats to make it 10mm wide. The big direct drive motors have 14mm axles with two flats milled to 10mm. When you put the motor axle in the drop-outs, you'll see that the...

All the ones I have seen are no-name Chinese ones. I've seen other SW900s, but never with the separate wires for the lights like yours, neither have I seen them on any Bigstone or Kingmeter LCD. I know some SW900s have the brown wire in the cable going to the controller, but I don't know what...

I only recommend things that I have a high confidence that they will work without problems. the supplier of the motor is Bafang. That motor can run perfectly happy in a 16" wheel at 48v up to around 20 amps. Actually, I don't find some of your posts very friendly! You might want to think about...

Can you give us a link to the exact battery you have? Does your controller have a label on it that shows the maximum current? If so, what is it? Do you have the white wires connected? If so, disconnect them.

I do stick to the rules. There is no rule that you can't write 19mph in this section of the forum. If you think there is, you can report it to admin and ask them to delete my post or move the entire thread.

Just about all motors require 10mm drop-outs.

You have to look at the tracks on the LCD to see whether the brown wire is connected to the same transistor output as the blue wire or whether it has its own transistor. Up 'til now, I've been speaking in principle from how other LCDs work. I've never studied the SW900. I've never see an...

There's lots of things that we'd all like. Don't be selfish! My post did not suggest that the guy should ride his bike faster than the legal limit anyway; however, if he runs with 48v, he can get his bike up to the legal limit, which he can't at the moment.

Did you watch the video? "Zero tampering incidences detected". It's just a field on the computer software with nothing in it because there was no way to detect the tampering. The question now is whether new versions of the motor software can use that field. Old ones couldn't or didn't.

You're getting all mixed up. Let's make it clear. 2019 motors don't log errors when you use a dongle. 2020 ones might do.