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The motor on my bike can give power to around 26mph with is 48v battery, but it's limited to 15.5 mph, the same as yours. Am I therefore by your logic encouraging myself to set it to power the motor over the legal assist limit?

That's really nice photo.

You need to get off your high horse. I didn't advise him to go over the speed limit anywhere.

The red wire going to the LCD has battery voltage, which is used to power the LCD when you press the power-on button. When you switch it on, the CPU in the LCD does two things: It latches the power on, and it switches a transistor to also latch it to the blue wire, which runs back to the...

It's on the left side, so magnet disc is correctly flipped.

The Nano kits I've seen use the Bafang SWXK5 motor that can handle a lot more power than what the controller in the Nano kit gives. If you want more speed, swap the controller and battery for 48v ones, which will give you 30% more power and 19 mph without unduly stressing the motor.

I would have said that anybody that makes a comment like that is just a waker, but you must be something more than that.

Talking of rust, have you seen this?

I used to use WD40 on my motorbike. It's completely useless as far as protecting against winter salt water. I later switched to Supertrol 001, which works really well. Basically, it covers everything with a protective layer of wax. You can't clean your bike after you've applied it until Winter...

The LCD works the lights completely independently of the controller, so there can be no compatibility issue with that function.

Without looking at the manual, I'd say that P7 is for the speed sensor to make the LCD show the speed correctly. It should be 1 or 6 normally. What are you using for a speed sensor?

We already discussed that one in another recent thread. It has very low gearing that can't easily be changed. It'll be fine up to around 15 mph, but you'll have to pedal very fast to go much more than that.

When the lights stay on, it's because the switching transistor is blown. Is there an inductor in your DC-DC converter. If so, it might have given out a kick.

Have you got a throttle installed? If not, have you got one for testing?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/36V-48V-Rechargeable-E-Bike-Li-ion-Battery-Lithium-Battery-W-Anti-theft-Lock/303241343836?hash=item469a97b35c:m:m21ZlE88dofkFqqSyJdfMvg The 36v 15Ah one. Plenty of range and more than enough power. £186 looks a good price.

I was thinking that too. I've got a feeling that Boris will start copying Trump. Our economy will boom, but ebikes might become more expensive. Maybe more people will then make them in the UK, which makes more jobs and potentially more profit. I'm alright Jack because I have a shedload of...

Make sure that the motor connectors are in all the way to the marked line, not just in tight.

For the last few days, I've been looking for the laptop that it's all on. I need the Santroll software off it for another forum member. I don't know how I could lose it in my house, but I have. When I find it, I can show you everything.

That's 2020. You said 2019. It makes a difference! Also, when everybody starts switching to other brands because they want to keep the angle of dangle with their dongle, Bosch will soon open up the back door or leak where it is. As I've said over the years, no matter what measure they put in...

What about when the pound becomes stronger?