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Even if it weren't standard, you could swap it around at the controller end unless you get a controller with moulded connector, which I wouldn't recommend. I'm pretty sure that all 9 pins are the same anyway.

It looks a bit tight to me. See if a Dolphin battery fits better. the fixings will line up with your bottle holde screws with this one. I'm not sure whether that's so with the one you propose.

I'm pretty sure that that's just scare-mongering. People have been spreading that myth for years, but there'e never been anything logged in the data; however, speed and power levels can give a clue that somebody has been using a dongle, but you can't prove that it's not because the bike has been...

That's right. there are no scales on the chart because it's a clip out of a very long one. the writing in the black box corresponds to the values on that thin vertical line next to it. You can see that level 3 (might be actually level 4, not sure) is around 6 amps, then estimating the vertical...

Some ramp down the power, so you don't notice the cut off. All motors have to give no power above 25km/h to be legal. That means that those that ramp down power have less power at 24km/h than one that cuts off dead at exactly 25.5 km/h. The rule says that the motor must ramp down the power...

How do you deal with dishing on the cassette motors?

OK, a 10spd cassette will be a 135mm hub, The free-hub makes things a bit more tricky because you can get get problems with the amount of wheel off-set (dish), especially with rim brakes, and the installation width of free-hub motors is nearly always more than 135mm. Have you or whoever is...

Does this help?

Just to clarify, have you got 5 gears at the back? Is it a free-wheel or free-hub hub? Do you know the drop-out width? On a bike with rim brakes and thin tyres, you need to keep the added weight to a minimum. You can't convert a road-bike into a moped, but with a light weight motor and battery...

Look at the current line on the chart. You can see 4 different levels, corresponding to 1,2,3, and 5.

Sorry, I meant to click the Q70. You need to select the 328 rpm version. That's important.

You need to disconnect the self-learning wires shown in the diagram. The motor turning is what happens when it does the self-learning.

You don't need to worry about all that theory. everything adds up and is easy to understand if you consider bateery voltage pushing the current through the motor, and the current going through the motor is equal to the current coming out of the battery, The only other thing is the back emf...

You don't have to worry about one unless you have a Bosch CX motor.

This is the motor you want for a Brompton, but you have to build it into your own rim (Sun CR18). https://bmsbattery.com/motor/369-15631-q85-24v200w-250w-front-driving-v-brake-hub-motor-ebike-kit.html#/213-rpm-201 I'd recommend this controller to go with it...

You have to test with the chain off to eliminate all other possible causes.

Don't forget that there are 3 phases , 2 directions and maybe 20 poles, so 120 main pulses per revolution , and the motor turns at around 1000 rpm (5:1 reduction), which makes 120,000 pulses per minute or 2000 pulses per second. I wouldn't start thinking about impedence because what happens is...

Correct unless it's the 36v/48v version, where the voltage can be selected in the settings. AFAIK, the only thing that changes in the settings is that a different multiplier is used with the measured voltage to work the battery level display and the LVC. The 24V/36v and 36v versions have...

It measures the incoming current through the shunt. It all goes to the motor, so it's outgoing current too. It adjusts the duty cycle up and down when it sees anything other than 10A in the situation you describe. The measurement is the voltage drop across the shunt. That voltage goes straight...

Maybe you can persuade the government to put luxury tax on all the Kalkhoff, Bosch and Brose bikes , just to teach them a lesson. Revenge is sweet. Every dog has his day.