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They don't have such a thick puncture guard as the normal MPs, and the tyre rubber is a lot softer too.

The speed sensor goes on a chain-stay or your fork and a magnet goes on your wheel. It's the same as the sensor on those bicycle computers. in fact, you can cut off the sensor from a bicycle computer and use it instead. You have something similar inside your motor already wired in to the motor...

A throttle isn't necessary, but is extremely useful. It doesn't affect the pedal assist in any way. It gives variable power, like on a motorbike or car. All those devices have matching connectors, so just plug in. The 9 motor wires and 2 battery wires need to be joined to the controller by...

No. You always need a controller whether a brushed motor or brushless one.

In the listing from where you bought the battery. See here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/36v-EBike-Battery-Pack-900W-Samsung-29ET-11-6Ah-Li-Ion-Battery-for-Electric-Bike/372693531532?hash=item56c643fb8c:g:NigAAOSwI~FdDEIG Continuous discharge current: 25A = approx. 900 watts Peak Instant...

It's always worth fitting a hydraulic brake to the front. Quality brake pads/blocks can also help a bit on your caliper brakes. People used to rave about Koolstops, but I didn't notice much difference. Maybe ask on an MTB forum.

It's not really that difficult to do if you can solder. You get the added benefit of programmable speed limit and addition of a throttle.

They have a new kit now, but it uses bespoke battery, controller, control system and pedal sensor. It's very expensive for what it is. You can get a standard bottle battery for about £150 and a Q100 kit for around £250, which gives you a reliable and replaceable kit of the same weight and...

Generally, if there is any problem with the battery, the LCD switches off, so you have to switch it back on. 11.6Ah is the size (capacity) of your battery, nothing to do with how much current it can give. You have to look at the listing to see how much current it can give. there's normally two...

If you have 36v, you can solve that by going up to 48v, which will give you 33% more torque. If you have steep hills, want a hub-motor and aren't a club cyclist, 48v is mandatory. I find it really surprising that manufacturers have more or less standardised on 36v, when 48v costs the same, is...

Rather than ranting, just show us how if you believe it can be done. I'll buy you a pint if you can enlighten me by showing how to get a pin out of the motor's 9-pin connector without destroying it.

Silicone grease. You can't use oil-based greases because they get absorbed by the nylon, which makes it swell and jam.

You can stop or start in any gear. If you have to stop suddenly with a CD bike in a high gear, you can't get going again. Also, none of that horrible clunking every time you change gear that makes you fear whether your gears will last long enough to get home. No need to keep changing gear with a...

Assuming that you have a soldering iron, solder and a multi-meter,: http://www.pswpower.com/ven.php?cargo.2016-3f-3f7c Click on throttle, LCD3 and 10 poles PAS. For the sake of £2, it might be worth getting the speed sensor too in case the one in your motor ever gives problems...

I'm not sure that programming will solve your problem. you mentioned in another thread that the motor was buzzing. can you describe your problem in more detail?

Pros: Quieter A lot more reliable Chains and sprockets last 5 times as long If you have a problem with your gears, pedal, crank or chain, you can still get home (throttle required) More user-friendly, especially in stop-start traffic and in the winter when you have cold hands. Lighter weight...

MPs are easily damaged. You mustn't fold them nor can you use the wrong technique to fit them. Even if you did it right, it could be that someone else bought your tyre, struggled to fit it and took it back to the shop or something like that. Before you try to flip the bead over the last bit of...

If you had actually tried it, like I said, you would know why you can't do it. Here's a suggestion: Watch those Youtube videos, then make a video of yourself doing it on your bike to elighten us.

I didn't say that the kit offered very little. I'm talking about torque sensors. A cadence sensor would be better for relaxed cycling. They're also generally more trouble-free. Woosh give excellent backup and support. They're a good supplier. I'm just saying that that should be more important to...

It's useful to be able to remove the battery from the bike. A Hailong battery clips into its holder, and it can be removed without needing to disconnect the cable, so a connector on the battery cable is pointless. I wouldn't fit one. Instead, I'd solder the battery wires directly to the motor...