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It's a shame you have spent all that money when in reality it would have made sense to rip it all of and fit a KT kit for less then £100 and know it will work as others have done.

Also they have a shop on Ebay, their factory is in either Poland or the Czech republic.

Your guy who replaced them must have glued them in with the Blue paste, yes only the three legs are soldered so once desoldered or broken off you can oik them out .

The controller a KT is dual voltage so yes in the future one can simply use a 48v battery. Does the throttle not work ? Does the throttle & PAS use the same SM3 pin Male or female pin connector from the controller or are they opposing male and female connector ?

The KT's are pre programmed, they use current control. PAS1 is approx. 13% of total current, PAS2 20%, PAS3 33%, PAS4 50% & PAS5 100%. If one is spinning to fast then your bike gearing s too low.

The current drawn is the rating of the Julet pin outs/wiring as in the specs from Julet. from what I have see the controller current output for lights is less and maybe only about 1a. The dedicated light output afaik runs from a separate line with some KT's also having a separate smaller pcb .

The dealer isn't a repairer because he doesn't have the nouse to do so, he is simply a box seller who swaps parts out, all the software stuff is done by a computer that some punches some buttons on.

Beg pardon Initially replied as I thought the charger port was the item at fault. Yes the battery port one shouldn't willy nilly poke metal objects in. The battery charge pin looks worn.

You won't do any damage if it isn't plugged in to the wall. Show us a pic of the charger port.

It's your thread and still related. When last you posted your LCD settings P2 was 0, we don't know how many magnets the Shengyi uses for the speed signal so adjust P2 to see if any work better. Often 1 or 6 does the trick. Is the wheel size set correct ? P2 & P1 are the only settings that...

The battery should charge to 42v so you need to check the charger again first with a meter, if the charger doesn't give a reading of 42v from the charge pin then it is faulty.

I don't see it as more onus on the cyclist to move over or get out of the way. The new consultation on rules brings in the hierarchy rules where by the vulnerable road users should be given more consideration by the larger vehicles that can do harm, however until everyone who drives...

You will have to check a few things to see if any help, it won't be a just this or that so a general fault diagnosis to go through . We could list a whole wrath of measures but best to go along one at a time. Don't assume just because the display lights up the battery is charged, displays...

Yes now you have it all up and running fine make sure you save a pic of your settings for future referral. I wasn't clear in my reply and the answer was too Atheo's post regarding his settings as we know different hubs even from the same manufacturer use different specs.

Tbh the most cost effective and easiest solution is to do what some others have done and replace the electronics and TS PAS with a KT system for less then £100.

Dealers can't or aren't allowed to carry out repairs that's why they are box sellers any fault and the part has t go back to Bosch first.

The pic clarity is poor but looks like they have the lawyers lips so you must make sure the nuts sit and tighten up fully with in the lips, you may have to file the drop outs 2.5 - 3mm deeper.

What works for one motor doesn't work for another. For instance gear ratio may be different as might be hub motor winding magnets which is the case with the Oxygen hub. Also the hub/ controller combo default phase setting wasn't liking it.

Where I live there are some under passes at roundabouts, ok in daylight but not so inviting when groups or gangs gather and a no go at night.

Try a different magnet pole count some hubs use more then one speed magnet, try six.