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All you can do is test halls for switching without opening the hub. Controllers although new one can't rule out a manufacturing fault. Retry the hub on original controller if no issue then either controller fault or possibly a sync fault, C2 has seven other sync modes whether one of them might...

Bikes with internal cable routing have designed reinforced cable inlet/oulets, simply drilling new cable runs doesn't give this option and may cause frame weakness via metal corrosion/fatigue.

The Holland bike shop is a good shout and have browsed them before for items.

You can't just tease us with OP :(, tell us which bikes.

Is it all working now ? Have you managed to find you way into P & C settings ? C1 is for PAS setting/configuration, tell us which PAS you have and we can tell you the correct C1 value.

Good job it was rent a bike & not rent a boy :eek:, I'll get my hat now.

A dongle only fools the speed limit by making the system think it is only going half speed so you can ride a lot faster, in doing so the battery range is half. It doesn't increase the watts power of the drive.

Why ?

This guy sounds just like he could be a friend of a couple of past posters who also had an axe to grind against Wisper, the rhetoric and manner all appear to be very similar. They start off with some good intentions then turn to insults and derogatory remarks.

My KT 12 pole DL PAS activates ( briefly) if the cranks rotate when I push the bike backwards so I always make sure PAS in 0.

Make life simple ditch the 5 wire PAS and use the a 3 wire PAS either 8 or 10 poles as they give less problems.

KT error code 3 is hall sensor issue so double check connection/wiring also make sure the hub wire connector is fully pushed home or use L3/1, see reason below. Maybe a hall is damaged in the hub so will need to be tested with a meter. Use the search pages of the forum for hall sensor testing...

Shame really you didn't join sooner and ask before you bought the 1kw D/D hub as we would have steered you towards a geared hub installation.

In your post with the first three pics you can clearly see the marks where the axle nuts have gripped you will be safe to file out or Dremmel to the near those marks (not forgetting to make sure the axle sits level at the end of the process). The tabbed washer then can sit with the tab at the...

Beg pardon if I seem harsh but only thinking of your safety in having the hub wheel fitted correctly as at speed you will know about it if a failure occurs.

Some of us use a Dremmel type tool to mill out the D'O what ever you do don't go for it and go mad, file out small adjustments at a time. It makes sense to use black board marker or similar to mark the area to file.

TA's are Torque Arm's, on their own still not suitable if the axle doesn't sit fully in. Just gad you are the one who's going to be riding it and not me.

Measure the hub axle it will be 10mm wide x 14mm deep, not interested in the 210mm over D/O width. All of the flat area you can see needs to be held within the drop out even with TA's.

The reason the hub wheel cam straight out is there is nothing to hold it properly in the D/O's, you are trying to replace a 9mm QR axle with a 14mm one. That means axle seat needs to be at least 2.5mm deeper if not more.

Sorry but Installation is poor the tabbed washers are doing nothing, the tab needs to physically hold in the D/O as well as having at least one TA fitted if not two.