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Surely, if you want more power, it would be better to get a BBSHD?

No. The battery management system is inside the battery and the two power wires go through it as well as supply the power it needs. Inside the battery are lots of wires, but only two come out of it and go to the motor controller. i suspect that those other two wires are for lights or something...

Do I read this right? You ran your 52v battery down to 23.4V???

When you buy the new silver fish battery, it'll come with the locking strip and base-plate. Alternatively you can buy any battery you like and run the wires through, like the previous owner did. Lithium battery cells charge to 4.2v and can be discharged down to 3.0v. You have 10 groups in a 36v...

There's no such thing as a + or - signal. They continuously switch on and off as each magnet goes past.

That's not true. I always test the hall sensors by rotating the motor backwards. The only time one didn't switch was when it was faulty.

I've known that sort of thing happen a few times., as I've been a motorcyclist all my life, during which time I've seen too many motorcycle accidents. At the scene, the driver knows they're at fault so they're very apologetic, but once they get home, they change completely. I've known drivers...

There are lots of different types of hall sensors. When you replace any, you should always use ones with the same designation or equivalents. Some have included pull-up or pull-down resistors. Some controllers have their own pull-up resistors and some have pull-down resistors. The resistors...

It could be a wire broken inside the insulation. More likely, though, is a dodgy joint somewhere.

Pedalease have a bad reputation for customer service.

That 20kg weight limit is only advisory. I've had 40 kg bikes on them.

The tabs won't stop the drop-outs spreading. Instead, they'll contribute to it.

I would never recommend upgrading cable brakes with cable brakes. Hydraulic brakes are hardly any more expensive than BB7s, and they're loads better in performance, serviceability and reliability.

Cut off the connectors and solder the wires together. That will be cheaper, easier and more reliable.

Looks like overkill. Aldi often sells a proper bike hoist for £10, then goes down to £5 on clearance. This one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20KG-Bike-Bicycle-Ceiling-Hanger-Lift-Pulley-Hoist-Storage-Stand-Garage-Rack-NEW/122886167884?epid=20023230727&hash=item1c9c961d4c:g:PbMAAOSw1QpaRjL~

This is a common and well-known fault. One cause is when the LCD panel breaks contact because its holder doesn't hold it tight enough. You can solve that with a bit of thin plastic or some tape down the side/s of the panel to wedge it in tighter. The next cause is when the battery terminals...

There's absolutely no point in doing that. It would make much more sense to start with a normal bike, so you can use a standard battery and controller, which will be much cheaper and easier to service.

There are two sizes for the slots in torque arms, 10 x 12 and 10 x14 mm. If you use the latter on a 10 x 12 axle, it'll distort and allow the axle to rotate. Both are a snug fit on the 10mm.

You can buy those batteries on Aliexpress and EBay. They're standard batteries, not specific to Powacycle. You must make sure that the polarity is correct before you install it. If it's wrong, it's a two minute job to swap over the terminals. Search for silver fish battery, then check the...

What size torque arm did you use (12mm or 14mm slot), what motor did you fit and what voltage and current are you running with?