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The spline for the DNP freewheel is deep inside. Some of the short tools don't reach. That's why the DNP tool is so long , and I guess why DNP went to the trouble of making their own tool. For the time being, you only need a tool to get your old freewheel off the motor, so any tool with a hole...

Don't think about a 500w motor. 250W motors often make more power in normal riding.

You need to tell us which ones you like the most and why.

You're a fast learner.

It depends what you mean by compatible. It'll work if you wire it up right. Your motor has a standard cable without a speed sensor, so you'd need to buy an external speed sensor. The controller will have the 9 pin connector, while as your motor and the speed sensor will have block connectors...

They're often hardened, so not easy to drill.

Cassette tool is different. This is the DNP freewheel tool https://www.amazon.co.uk/DNP-Epoch-Freewheel-Remover/dp/B007AI1LGW

Don't forget you need the tool to get the old one off. The tool needs to have a hole large enough to clear the axle. DNP tools work and are cheap, but last time I looked there weren't any on EBay. Try Aliexpress. This is what the DNP one looks like...

The question of where to get 11T freewheels has been running ever since we had electric bikes. It's very rare that we ever lose sight of them.

The problem with increasing the chainring size is that you raise the gearing in bottom gear too. Instead, you should fit a DNP freewheel with 11T top gear. It will inrease your spin out speed by around 30%, which you'll find much more realistic. It won't change your bottom gear...

Cells don't cause cutouts. The BMS does. Use any large capacitor you can find, say 470mfd or 1000mfd. It just needs to be rated at a high enough voltage, say 60V or more. Solder it directly across the battery wires, making sure that you get it the right wzy round, otherwise it will go bang.

I've used a lot of KT controllers, some with shunt mods to get extra current. I never experienced that problem, and I can't see how it can happen. The MOSFETs are like taps, they ony open and let the battery power through. If you set the current too high, they get hot and blow. Only the battery...

I'm out until you do what I suggested.

A hub motor is generally better for the road, but a mid motor can offer advantages for very steep hills and or heavy riders. You should be OK with hub motor at 48v. In fact at only 12 st and the hills around Edinburgh not too bad, I think you'd be OK with a 36v setup. You'd be surprised at how...

Why not get a rear hub motor? They're much better for riding on the road.

What version of software do you have, Soundwave, I'm wondering whether the latest version that's in the latest CX motors checks cadence against gearing to try and defeat dongles because there are reports of dongles not working on latest versions.

The most important thing is that you get the right kit for your needs. It doesn't make sense to save £100 to have something that's less than satisfactory. To give you best advice, we need to know how heavy you are, exactly what sort of hills and how hard you expect to pedal.

You don't need a brake sensor with a KT controller because it has such a fast response to the pedal sensor, but the one you have will most likely work if you want to use it. There are always ways to fit a pedal sensor without having to buy a new BB. it just takes a bit of imagination. All you...

there's nothing wrong with a BBS**. Thousands of people are using them happily. the Bosch system is quite sophisticated. It isn't just the harder you pedal, the more power you get. it uses other factors to work out how much power to give. Some other systems that use torque sensors are horrible.

Any silicone grease should be OK. You don't have to use that Bosch stuff. The idea is only to put up a barrier to the salt.