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Try setting parameter C10 to y to do a system reset. I think you need a new lcd because the software is currupted but there's always a chance. I've had to replace a couple of these LCDs because of they developed software faults.

There is no torque simulation in these controllers. It's just a name. There is no setting to make the throttle the same as the pedal sensor. It's always speed control and always gives 100% power when fully open. If you want less power, don't turn it as far. Some versions of that controller don't...

In case the above was a bad explanation, the battery management system, often referred to as the BMS, which is the printed circuit board in the battery, has over current protection. It is sensing the current leaving the battery all the time, even when it's switched off and it trips off when...

You don't need a fuse on most electric bike batteries because the management system has that function included. It's probably a case that dated back to before batteries had management systems, like nihms, nicads SLAs and some early lithium ones. I see a lot of battery cases with fuses in that...

I think that you should re-check the operation and installation of your PAS. There isn't really any fault in the controller that can make it work like that. It works with the throttle so the main function is correct and it works sometimes with the PAS so there must be a problem with the PAS...

The yellow wire is for lights, but your version of the control module doesn’t have that function. Look on the populated side of the PCB to see that it's not connected to anything. Solve your problem by starting with the test I wrote above. You can also do the measurements on the PCB if you...

Remove the battery and check that the two plungers on the battery base move properly against their springs. Grease them while you're there. If there's nothing wrong with them, it might be worth checking them on the inside in case the nut that holds the wire on has come loose. There's a little...

You can use any 4 wire LED control panel. There are loads available from Chinese suppliers like Aliexpress. The one above will work as long as it's the correct voltage. Just join the wires. Don't bother with the light connector because its for low power lights. There's no point in getting one...

Plug in the control panel and switch on the bike. Measure the voltage between the green and the black wire by pushing your voltmeter probes into the connector where the wires come out. You should get 1v on level one, 2v on level 2, 3v on level 3. If the voltage doesn’t change, the control panel...

When the lights in the control panel flash, it's because the computer chip inside it is damaged by water. Unless you can see that the connectors in the cables are completely damaged by corrosion, you can probably repair your bike by only replacing the control panel. Before you buy anything, you...

Why do you think the motor is faulty. There's not to much to them to fail and they're easy to fix anyway. If you liked it, why not sort it out. Let's say the motor is faulty and you don't likeit. Why not just get a new motor more suited to your riding style?

BBS02 controller is potted, so is waterproof, but the connectors to it aren't. They're very vulnerable to a soaking. That's the connectors in the unsealed controller compartment.

That Ebay sensor could work with modification, but won't work as a direct replacement. The Cyclamatic Power Plus sensor only has two wires in the connector. The third wire comes from the throttle. If you can't do simple wiring, you should get the original one from Sports HQ. You need a crank...

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The drag from your motor is nothing to do with wheel size or type of motor, I can see in your video that the clutch in your motor is jammed on. Take it back to your dealer and ask him to fix it or a forward whack or kick to the wheel frees it sometimes. I work on electric bikes a lot and I see...