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The control panel on the handlebar effectively switches off the battery electronically, so there's no need for a separate switch.

Loads of things to get your teeth into. Powabyke throttles work electronically in reverse to a normal one, so if someone replaced the original one for whatever reason, it'll work in reverse and give full throttle when shut and no power when fully open. Brushless motor controllers give full...

Yes but he's talking about restricting it to10 mph so both torque and temperature will be higher.

The control panel works from direct voltage from the battery on its red and black wires. You have measured no volts there so it can't work. You now have to trace back to find why you have no voltage there, like the battery is switched off or it's not connected properly. The wires for the control...

You need to increase the speed to make it run cooler. Slowing it down is the worst thing for it.

It won't fit directly. Even if it did, it wouldn't work because you have no gears and your whees are too small, so it would have a very low top speed.

Please measure the voltage between the red and the black wires.

Do not try to connect that control panel to the controller that you showed at the beginning of the thread. It's not compatible.

KT LCD8 is not compatible with the controller you show at the beginning of the thread. Why did you buy it? It seems a bit irrational after forum members told you what to buy. Are you in discussion with someone else?

Which control panel did you buy, the LCD3 or the one we told you to buy?

There should be four wires in the connector. Red is from the battery. Black is from the battery. They power the control panel. When you operate the switch on the panel, it switches on a blue wire that provides power to the controller. The fourth wire is green and is the pedal assist power wire...

Your old connector on the LCD had 4 or 5 pins, so did the connector from the controller that it plugged into. You couldn't have 7 pins from the controller because you wouldn't be able to plug it in. The number of wires that leave the controller are irrelevant because some of them go to the...

Cut the connectors off and join the wires. Make sure you switch off or disconnect the battery first.

The settings don't allow the pedal assist to work along with an independent throttle. You can have that with many controllers, but not with yours. It's logical that the reason is that their combined signals go into a single input. That input could be in the software or a physical pin on the CPU...

The connection to the pedal assist is inside the controller. The signal wires must go in separately but share the same input to the CPU or something like that. The settings give the option of breaking the connection between them, but then only one can be connected to the CPU at the same time...

There aren't really any faults in the controller that can stop the the LCD from working. The data wires go direct to the CPU through resistors, so even a battery short on the 5V can't get to the LCD. The other wires are at battery level anyway so no short can harm them. John can eliminate some...

The clutch has gone, probably because the salty water from winter roads has got in. There's most probably other damage in there, but a new clutch will cover most of it. The clutch includes the plastic gears. Bearings are really cheap so replace them at the same time. Everything else will be fine...

When the LCD doesn't switch on, it's because it's broken, it has insufficient voltage from the battery or the battery voltage goes down when you switch on. Measuring the voltage between the red and black wires on the LCD's connector will tell you everything you need to know about what's...

For throttle only, it's P9 set to 0 and P10 set to 1. In this version of Chinese, handlebar means throttle. I think the best setting is P9 set to 1 and P10 set to 2. That will mean that you can set a low pedal assist, and every time you need a burst of speed, you can use the throttle as long as...

I don't understand. They have the hole for a mudguard bracket. Use stayless mudguards and you'll be OK. They're better than the mudguard you have too for less than ten quid.