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It can be bought. https://urbanmover.com/products/um33x-user-manual. Try these threads to see if there is any info to help your search. https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/search/364442/?q=urban+mover&t=post&o=date

Only at 500w it will be marked as so and say's it is illegal should any one look. Woosh sell the legal 250 custom version from the manufacturer also PSWPower though good value aren't exactly forward coming with CS and repairs. If you still have to factor in buying a battery then pay the extra...

The controller is located in front of the battery, if you can access it look for a spare wired 3 pin connector. If there is one then it should be for a throttle which you can retrofit, not all controllers have the spare outlet but you might be lucky. Which hub motor and display is used ?

Disc brakes use a standard ISO mounting size so you just have to buy ones that suit your mounting, though I would ditch any crappy cable pull set up and replace it with superior hydraulic brakes for little more cost. Performance is better and no issue with cable stretch to contend with. Buy...

Right now you have explained what you are trying to accomplish, Ok so a 1x set up using only the rear gears available. The Bafang or Tdsz comes with it's own crank arms you can buy front smaller stock chain rings or buy the expensive Bling ring, both don't use standard chain rings as the bolt...

You likely haven't set the volt meter up correctly as it should at least show the battery voltage before you do anything, it should read between 32v and 42v depending on the SOC (State of charge). The dial should be set to DC range or V and on the 200v setting and not AC range or A.

The shunt mod might be too much for the controller. Also moisture might be an issue as the controller gets all the road spray at the base of the battery.

No use the middle front or the granny/small ring along with the rear low gears.

Battery needs replacing, but to be sure connect a volt meter to the two wires between battery and controller. Lift the wheel off the ground and use the PAS/throttle and watch the voltage if it collapses then the battery is scrap.

Simply use the lower gearing available.

The windings etc, etc will all be as bad except the copper will be oxidised Green and if it is sensored the halls will likely need replacing, get it apart and see how bad the windings are first. A brush , Meths or Isopropanol bath would be an option then a thorough rinsing or two and then a...

The 29e option will be ok if you limit the controller amps using C5. Currently your controller (15a) outputs 540w max (temporary power) or approx. 430w at the wheel, battery is 522wh. A 48v battery only needs 11.25a for the same output in watts. A 48v controller (22av) outputs 1056w max...

Controller should be compatible if the Julet's match as julet wire sequence is standard. Your current controller is a 6 fet metal box one yes ? If so they suffer from thermal heat issues, increasing the amps via shunt mod adds to the problem and causes mosfet issues. The Hailong controller...

What assist level do you riding in and under what circumstances does the battery/bike cut out ?

Batteries coming direct from China will liable for duty and carriage charge. EU sourced batteries is an option but still there is the problem of returning if faulty, though some sellers have a UK option for issues. 29E doesn't like higher amps even in 5p format so suggest you keep it to < then...

Looks like an all in one piece cheap crappy crank set so non replaceable rings, show us a pic from the other side/inner face.

The Raptor I realise is 24v not 36v now so must have more then 9 cells, surely 14 cells for a 2p7s battery. 26F is 2600mah so will give 5.2ah. The most you can hope for with new better 18650 cells is between 5.8 - 7ah, so I can see why you are looking at 15a/30q rated cells. If you can get...

More details needed like battery age, cells make/type and controller ampage. What you describe could be an ageing battery that can't handle the load demand asked of it, typically know as voltage sag. Sag is a result of cells with high IR (internal resistance/capacity loss ) due to ageing or...

At least we know the lock number now, in case we see it around and want to borrow it :rolleyes:.

Your 26F cells are manufactured Korea dated 2014 Jan 4th so a few years old now. Your battery I'm guessing is 10.4ah a re-cell with 30q would be 12ah and a 3500mah cell would be 13.8 - 14ah dependant on the cell. There are better cells to be had then 30q for low power bikes, LG MJ1 & M36 will...