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It would have to be a Bafang hub kit as surely a mid drive wouldn't have the ground clearance :rolleyes:.

No, If I need any I just use a supplier off ebay for silicone awg. I have used HK when buying lipo but no longer use them at all.

For 20mph and over you need 48v. My 36v Yose 350w hub @17a can do 28mph in highest assist level 5.

This hub seems to get better every time I use it and is a blast @48v, pas 5 28.5mph has me spinning out with 48/11 gearing and that's on knobbly 37c x 622 tyres. Using it at 36v is enjoyable as well, like most hubs unassisted low speed is a bit of an effort with the weight all at the centre...

When will buyers/users learn ? Anything with an Impulse drive unit should be left well alone bad enough when new let alone used.

As we often see posters never include their location so it's difficult for any one to even offer help locally. It's not that hard to put your county/town or first four digits of a post code in the settings.

Cheap bike as in the red one you show uses hub gears so a rear hub motor is no good. Use a GSM mid drive with a KT 17a controller and lcd3.

I have been told Jimmy has received or has on order 28,000, YES twenty eight thousand GA Panasonic cells as he believes there will be a mass shortage/supply issue in the near future as demand will be increasing, which will probably see 18650 price's rising as well. Production will not be able...

Depends on the cell amp rating and the controller rating/amp draw. Using thicker rated wire is for safety as it will run cooler and prevent bottle necks when a load is asked. For P- & B - I use 14awg ( about 45a rating) and also the same on + connections, though you could use 16awg (about...

The voltage does collapse dramatically eventually for the whole battery, did you try increasing the battery draw by gently applying the brakes ? If it is a cell group then voltage will bounce back when it has recovered, you need to do the same test but for each of the 13 cell groups to see...

Some Shimano road bike group sets are fairly compatible with MTB group sets, though not all. If ever mixing the two you have do thoroughly do your home work via forums etc, to ascertain which might work. 10sp Tiagra appears to not be compatible.

Moisture damp if it has formed or got inside the hub then will rust and cause motor seizure. They can be freed up but will entail opening of the hub if it is able to pried open.

Front fork D/O width and rear D/O width ?

The spec for 105 GS cage is max rear low sprocket is 32t, max front chain wheel 16t different . Max total capacity shouldn't exceed 37t front to rear. If the rear mech changes up to the 36t ok you should be ok with mech capacity as 11/36 x 42 only works out as 31t total capacity. The only...

Exactly where I thought it was eventually takes you all the way down to Lye Green passing 500 acre(LHS) on the way. The driver took a chance only needed someone coming up to the junction at speed.

If the wheel doesn't turn issue may likely be inside the hub and more then likely a stuck clutch or damaged planetary gears. Follow the hub motor cable from the axle and see if it has a joint in it, if so pull the plug apart and see if the wheel turns by hand if not the issue is likely a stuck...

Ultegra is 105 group set, rear mech will be a medium GS cage might just manage a 36t low gear but nothing larger without a road link.

I got lost after SportsHQ. You need to clarify what you are saying/asking !!! Does it mean, I bought a new battery and it still doesn't work.

Obviously an impetuous driver cutting the junction, If I'm not mistaken looks like the turning off down to Lye Green past 500 acre wood Eddie. Was out that way on the Boardman Monday for a 50 miler. ONL it is.

To go larger then 11/32 on the rear you need to say what mech you currently are using as they usually have a max low tooth rating, road bikes will have a short or med cage. To go 11/36 or even 11/42 a road link can be used and extends the mech 20/22 mm lower to enable (jockey wheel clearance)...