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you may have to do that if you can't get into the advanced settings (number of magnets). The alternative is to change the LCD.

it's going to be a record breaking product! very well done!

Hi Greg, the problem happened because of holiday. Andy was dealing with you - then the day you sent back the LCD, controller and the Julet cable, Andy went on holiday. I stood in for Andy, sorted out the replacement LCD, sent the package back and thought no more of it. Andy came back to work...

Andy is back in the office. He'll sort it out for you.

don't be alarmed by it. It's normal behaviour! Inside the controller, there is a large 50V 2.2mF capacitor. When the battery is connected, if the capacitor is not charged, the inrush current can be as high as 30A-50A, causing a little spark across the contact points. The noise you hear is the...

not easy. It's quicker to get the motor off the bike first, you can leave the chainring where it is.

Greg, Jim said he fixed it and sent it back to you weeks ago. The LCD was found to be faulty, replaced, sent back to you by first class post on 5th-April. We are tracing it for you at the moment.

Hi Greg, I thought I saw your kit in the workshop about 3 weeks ago. Andy is at lunch at the moment. I'll ask him when he gets back. Tony

they have a month to sort out the CU option. As far as I can guess, her cabinet has pretty much agreed that we need some customs arrangement to keep NI in the UK. Whatever they call that arrangement, soon enough the rest of the country will have to come to the same conclusion: we want to keep...

quite possibly. People who don't have experience of CD bikes don't realise how much heat is generated inside the motor if they don't keep their cadence up. There ought to be a label on the handlebars reminding riders 'be nice to your motor, keep your cadence above 60 rpm'. The controller is...

they all know that Liam Fox is totally unlikely to deliver better than a CU or SM membership. their only weapon is TM whom they hold as hostage. Her problem is her place in history as the PM that delivers brexit. Eventually, she'll tell them enough is enough and call their bluff.

very good buy. Replacement batteries are still available from us, £225.

the speed sensor is either attached to the chain stay and activated by a magnet attached to a spoke or built inside the motor. If you don't have a spoke magnet, then it is inside the motor.

back on topic, Thursday will see how the forces are lined up in the HoC. There will be an unwhipped vote on a customs union.

from the BBC: Brexit: Government insists UK will leave customs union. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-politics-43860453 TM is indeed preparing for another U-turn. Any customs arrangement that is outside the SM is going to be on manufactured goods and energy, leaving agriculture and fisheries to...

you have to take the drive side nut out completely before pulling the wheel out of the dropout. Otherwise the wheel nut gets tangled against the derailleur hanger. many people make that mistake the first time. Don't worry about it.

the LCD contains the switch to turn the controller on. That seems to say that his LCD has gone. try using your bus cable with your LCD, leave brake levers and throttle out, then use the walk mode to test the controller and motor.

Bristol is hilly. You'd need a meaty kit. I'd suggest the 48V SWX02. It's neat, stealhy, with tidy wiring and gives very good torque. http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?hubkits#swx02-48v-kit

If you want a more discreet conversion, I'd suggest the 48V SWX02 rear wheel kit. http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?hubkits#swx02-48v-kit

you'd really need to spend £600+ for a really good bike, then there is the cost of the conversion on top. Anything under £1200 is a compromise on some aspect on the mechanical bike. Even then, bikes need more looking after than motorbikes and cars. Keep it dry, keep it clean, keep its tyres well...