A reminder to use torque arms on kit builds

Fordulike

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 26, 2010
3,802
1,537
Most seasoned electric bike kit builders already know the importance of fitting at least one good quality torque arm on their set ups.
A lot of people new to fitting kits on bikes, probably have a torque arm as a low priority on their list, if at all :eek:

A torque arm is designed to resist the hub motor axle from spinning out of the fork or frame, when power is applied. Needless to say, the more torque your motor has, the more relevant it becomes that your bike will need a torque arm or two.

Here are some reasons why you need torque arms and a shameless plug for torque arms at Cyclezee.
I have two of his torque arms fitted (see piccys) and they really are of excellent quality:
  • Resists axle spin, preventing resulting face plant as the wheel leaves the bike
  • Even if axle does spin slightly on really high power set ups, may prevent wheel from leaving bike
  • Essential for set ups that use regenerative braking
  • Essential for hub motors fitted to the front fork
  • Prevents hub motor cable damage from spinning axle. Costly and time consuming!
I've found the best way to approach building a high powered bike is to over engineer. This I found out when modding my humble Cyclamatic back in the day. It'll save costly breakdowns later on, or potentially getting badly injured due to some simple omissions:

Cyclezee Torque Arms

Cyclezee Torque Arm Right.jpg Cyclezee Torque Arm Left.jpg
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
52,841
30,396
Seconded. And it's often possible to drill and tap rear frames to lock the eZee torque arm direct without the secondary arm:

 

Fordulike

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 26, 2010
3,802
1,537
Cyclezee is now selling an improved version (V2) of his popular and excellent quality torque arms:

Cyclezee torque arms extra strong V2

If these are even better than the original torque arms sold, then they are a no brainer safety item to add to your electric bike set up ;)
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
Make sure that you use one with a 10 x 12 mm slot for a motor with a 12mm axle and a 10x 14 mm one for a 14mm one. I've just seen a catastrophic failure where the 12mm axle turned in the 14mm slot at relatively low torque.
 

Fordulike

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 26, 2010
3,802
1,537
I totally agree, I had a pair of your original torque arms, which were a bit thinner I believe. Very well built and robust.
I noticed you have sold quite a few of the new ones, so was just wondering if anyone on the forum had fitted them to a bike yet ;)
 
C

Cyclezee

Guest
I totally agree John, I had a pair of your original torque arms, which were a bit thinner I believe. Very well built and robust.
I noticed you have sold quite a few of the new ones, so was just wondering if anyone on the forum had fitted them to a bike yet ;)
We have sold several hundred of sets worldwide, mostly on eBay and I have no idea if the buyers are on the forum or not.

The majority don't leave feedback, so I assume that no news is good news.

The only failure that has been reported to me was from a renowned forum member, this was one of the original thinner sets which were not our own design and manufacture.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
That failure was due to the wrong size slot. I've since seen exactly the same failure on BMSBattery ones, which are extremely hard, so make sure that you get the right slot for your axle: 12 x 10mm for Bafang, Q100; 12 x14 for Ezee, direct drive motors and MAC. It's best to measure your axle to be sure.
 
C

Cyclezee

Guest
That failure was due to the wrong size slot. I've since seen exactly the same failure on BMSBattery ones, which are extremely hard, so make sure that you get the right slot for your axle: 12 x 10mm for Bafang, Q100; 12 x14 for Ezee, direct drive motors and MAC. It's best to measure your axle to be sure.
Hmm, maybe you should have got an engineer to fit them correctly:oops:
 

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