Bicycle Suspension

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
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This is the third in a series of technical articles covering some of e-bikes complexities in quite full detail so that all aspects of the subject can be appreciated.

The background to the suspension issue.

Suspension has been around for hundreds of years since carriages and stagecoaches, and cars adopted it very quickly. Bikes as we know them have been around for 150 years or so, but never had suspension until about the last twenty years. When I was a youngster, the whole country rode bikes, few could even afford bus fares and cycling to and from work was the norm as it had been for more than half a century, so most of the population knew far more about bicycles than is true now. Bikes could have had suspension then very easily, but customers didn't ask for it or feel they wanted it, simply because the bikes were correctly designed and didn't need it. And that was on post World War II roads that were in the worst condition possible after a decade and a half of total neglect due to the war effort.

It was the mountain bike that changed all that from it's first showing in 1979, people liked the macho look and started riding them on the road, putting up with the huge extra effort needed to propel them for the sake of the style. That's fine for them, but I dislike the way in which that fashion has virtually eliminated good utility bike design, to the point where shops don't have them and few people even know what a good efficient bike is. As a result the majority considering a bike purchase mistakenly think suspension is essential.

Not so in mainland Europe though where there's huge numbers of utility cyclists. They are people who ride for every purpose throughout their lives so can be regarded as knowledgeable and professional, but they haven't followed the mountain bike fashion and ride unsuspended well designed bikes. That's because as very experienced cyclists, they know better.

The technical and efficiency aspects.

The implementation of suspension forks on bicycles is generally rather poor, and they fall far short of the standards of motor cycle ones since the weight that can be added to a bicycle is limited. They generally fall into two groups, the ones with slack which are a bit imprecise in handling but spring ok and last, and those that are more taut but which can often seize up after a while due to inadequate clearances combined with poor sealing of the legs.

Suspension on bikes is inefficient, and is universally accepted as such by cycle designers worthy of the title, and they only include it in designs for marketing reasons because customers knowing no better demand it. Of the forms of suspension, rear suspension is the worst and most inefficient, then front suspension follows which is not quite as bad, next down is a sprung seat post, and finally fat low pressure tyres which are not terribly inefficient in the suspension sense at least. However, there are various groupings to consider when judging the relevance and effects of springing systems, Road Bikes, Mountain Bikes in competition, and Electric Bikes.

Unassisted road bikes should never have suspension and no knowledgeable cyclist or designer will think they need it, since they suffer the most from it's inefficiency. Suspension adds comfort but creates more work for the rider in direct proportion, the more protection from road bumps, the higher the penalty paid in pedalling effort. As far as possible, here should be a rigid connection between rider, pedals, and road to ensure that no effort is wasted. Think of hammering a nail into wood. Which is more effective, hitting the nail with a bare steel hammer, or having a block of rubber between the two? Clearly the rubber would absorb the energy and be ineffective at driving in the nail.

In practice when cycling, pedal downthrust effort is absorbed by the springs, a small proportion is lost as heat, and the rest is then returned in useless modes. Half is sent down into the road at the forward sloping angle of the forks and slowing the bike as it's in the opposite to the direction of travel, the other half is sent back up into the bike. The only time that second half has no effect is when the pedal cranks are vertical, at all other points the upwards rebound force directly opposes the rider's pedal effort and has an ill effect on cycling rhythm and muscle action. Therefore, the suspension having lost some of the original pedal effort into the spring, almost half of the lost portion returns to have a second go at wasting the rider's effort. Added to these, insufficient damping of the spring motion which is common on bike suspension causes excess rebound bounce, and this multiplies the forward energy loss.

Mountain Bikes in Competition on severe surfaces can benefit from suspension forks with very limited spring movement to prevent wheel or frame breakage, but with no excess movement beyond that reducing the rider's competitiveness.

Electric bikes are a more complex case with three aspects. The three aspects are the proportional relevance of suspension in e-bikes, e-bikes with front hub motor, and e-bikes with other motors. As you've seen, the major objection to suspension is the way it saps pedal effort. The importance of this to e-bikers is often lower if the motor power means less pedal effort, and especially lower if a powerful bike is used and the rider doesn't intend very much input. Conversely, with a sporty bike like the eZee Torq which requires the rider to make a very real contribution to the effort, springing would cause a large loss of rider input, and that's why eZee wisely made this their only full size model without it. (Unfortunately they've given in to the market now with the latest Torq Trekking which has sprung forks.)

E-bikes with a front hub motor have the potential to be uncomfortable to ride. The high unsprung weight of the motor in the wheel when bounced up by poor roads has considerable force, and this can cause hard jarring shocks into the handlebars, especially bad if a rider suffers RSI or a wrist condition. Therefore, unless it's a sporty model where efficiency is important, sprung forks are advisable for the extra comfort they give.

E-bikes with motors in other positions do not need suspension as they are like road bikes in character, but as said above, much depends on the degree of rider input. With high intended rider input, avoid suspension, but if the motor is being relied on for most of the motive power, having springing doesn't really matter much.

For a second opinion on some aspects of suspension, see this post by Ian in the main forum.
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ITSPETEINIT

Esteemed Pedelecer
Dec 11, 2006
492
0
Mere, Wilts
Suspension Forks on a Sprint 7

I have had my Sprint for 10 weeks and 600 miles now and I can say it is pitched exactly where I need it: Gearing; Suspension; Weight; Range and Carrying Capacity.

I still struggle to crest some hills (Long ones with gradients of about 9% or 10%. Muscles are improving very gradually. So all was joy until I discovered there was a certain 'drag' when commencing to pedal without power. I meticulously checked that all revolving parts were revolving freely (both wheels: they even reversed their revolutions when the imbalance of weight reached the top of the wheel). There was no resistance in the crank bearings. The brakes were not rubbing in the slightest. So I put it down to the bike's weight and wheel base compared with a non-motorised road/touring cycle.
Now I've just read Flecc's commentary on Front Suspension and the 'drag' is clearly the bouncing effect of the downward pedal thrusts. All that effort to drive the front wheel into the tarmac. I think "Lock-out" forks could be a good investment at those times when one has no motor assistance.
However, it must also be happening when pedalling with the motor running which is not good news. Alright when pedalling is light (in my case all the time except on hills), I accept the inefficiency. BUT when giving the bike serious wellie on a serious hill is another matter - you can't lean down and lock out the forks even if you have that facility.
On balance I prefer to suffer the bounce than suffer the shaking.
Peter
 

flecc

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Oct 25, 2006
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Yes I think that's a good summary Peter. Even when intending minimal assistance on an e-bike, there will usually be the odd hill where more serious assistance gets one into the dissipation of effort situation.

But in support of what you say, overall for most users, it's best with a front hub motor to have the sprung forks

I didn't raise the issue of pedalling without power in the main article since it's generally unproductive on hub motor bikes. Although spinning the motorised wheel manually appears to indicate it's very free running, in practice when cycling there is a real drag element due to the orbital gear train having to run all the time, the freewheel in the hub being between motor and orbital set, the latter always engaged with the hub's toothed gear ring.

Although orbital gears are physically very convenient on bicycles, they have almost six times the inefficiency of a normal spur gear pair in transmitting rotational power.
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frank9755

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 19, 2007
1,228
2
London
Obviously you can replace suspension forks with solid ones, but that's quite a big job. As a quick fix, is there an easy way to lock suspension forks?
Frank
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
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I don't know Frank, I've never tried, but I guess that rings clamped onto the sliding section to prevent movement should be possible. I've no idea if such things exist though. If it was only for an experiment, a jubilee clip could be clamped onto each sliding section after raising the bike to extend the forks fully. Then they wouldn't be able to slide, but I don't think that would be good enough as a permanent fix.
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Dell

Finding my (electric) wheels
Apr 3, 2007
16
0
I don`t know how feasible/useful this would be.But how about refilling them with thicker oil or grease.

Derek
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
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That would work with better quality properly damped forks Derek, but many of the cheap forks on bikes these days are virtually just spring only and not sealed well enough for grease to be effective.
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Radfahrer

Just Joined
Feb 9, 2008
3
0
unsprung weight

Hi,
Since there bikes suspension was not really an issue. Bikes weigh 13Kg or so and can be deemed as the vehicles unsprung weight. The human being riding it can weigh 80Kg but is really sprung weight. This would be achieved through the natural ability of a human to absorb shock loading and the sprung saddle of the bike. This would give the vehicle a total weight of 93 Kg with 14% unsprung weight. This doesn't seem too bad in comparison with some older cars. Ebikes has driven up this unsprung weight considerably to circa 30% unsprung weight mainly from battery weight. Lead acid batteries supply1ng most of the weight increase.I use sla batteries are not going to disappear due to their reliability, high level of development and low cost. They are also recyclable(in Ireland). As a change in direction to ever lower battery weights(NiMh etc) has anyone ever looked at springing and damping the battery pack within the bike frame. I cringe sometimes when my SLA bike goes over traffic calming bumps. I'm affraid I'll break an axle due to shock load caused by my battery weight. I worry also about my battery casing being shattered by the same shock load. I'm strongly thinking of designing in some battery internal suspension with damping. i would be interested in comment on this from other ebikers.
 

flecc

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Oct 25, 2006
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I have had a broken battery carrier when crossing a speed bump in the road, in this case with a 5.5 kilo NiMh battery.

On non-suspension bikes I think a sprung battery platform would be a good idea, but only with limited and well damped movement, mainly to absorb shocks.
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essexman

Pedelecer
Dec 17, 2007
212
0
cb11
Great article Flecc. I'm fairly anti suspension, but ive wondered about whether its more necessary on an e bike.

Your review of the Agattu was very favourable, and you didnt actually criticise the suspension. You said you expected to, but that you were pleasantly suprised by it. Any comment as to why it worked for you this time?
 

flecc

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Oct 25, 2006
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There were two reasons really. The first was, as noted in the review, that I had the fork suspension adjustment set hard, so there was in fact only suspension action over the worst shocks, and then a very short movement.

The second was that the forks are substantially built with no slack in the sliders, this being the most common fault in bike forks.

So most of the time they were doing a very good imitation of being rigid forks, just acting as worst case shock absorbers.

For those who like a softer setting, I've no doubt they'd be amongst the better forks still, given the lack of slop in the sliders, but I personally don't like to cycle like that.
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Caph

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 29, 2008
440
11
Nottingham, UK
I just thought I'd add my experience to this thread. I've moved from a lightweight hybrid with no suspension and 700C tyres, to a heavier mountain bike again with no suspension but with 1.75" tyres. That really opened my eyes to how much comfier the wide tyres made the journey, but also how much more effort was required.

That led me to my recent decision to opt for a full suspension MTB pedelec with 2.1" tyres. I now get the smoothest ride I've ever experienced (I feel like I've moved from a Morris Minor to a Cadillac!) but without having to pay the price in increased effort - in fact my average speed is now about 1MPH more than on my non-suspension lightweight thin tyred hybrid!

Someone else was asking about suspension for the battery. With rear air suspension that is effectively what you are getting. I hit speed bumps now without even giving them a second thought and have no worries about my battery.

Another unforseen advantage I've noticed recently is the fact that when I go round bumpy corners, the suspension keeps my tyres in contact with the road all the time making cornering much easier/safer. There are some nasty corners on my way in to work that I would previously have to concentrate on with no suspension and thin tyres, but now I cruise round them at much faster speeds without a care in the world.

I for one will never go back to no suspension, or even part suspension for that matter.
 
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flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
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Comfort certainly Caph, but more cycling efficient, never, due to the vertical cyclic thrust of the effort input.

Thats why suspension is never seen in any form in racing on road or track, since it wastes energy. Only a very limited form of front suspension is seen in top level off road competition, and rear suspension never.

On motorbikes where the drive is a constant force without a vertical component suspension is best is the ways you accurately described, and of course that's where e-bikes are a compound case. A rider who only uses minimal pedal input and relies on the motor a lot can find suspension a good all round option, but with high pedal input suspension is an effort losing disadvantage, rear suspension especially so.
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Caph

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 29, 2008
440
11
Nottingham, UK
I think I might have caused confusion. When I said I didn't have to pay for it with increased effort, I meant with the motor assistance! Without the assistance the full suspension and fat tyres just wouldn't have been an option for me. I'd be far too sweaty when I turned up to work. I still feel a bit guilty when I turn up to work after a comfortable effortless ride even quicker than I would have on my uncomfortable hybrid, but then that's the beauty of the electric bike I suppose.
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
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I think I might have caused confusion. When I said I didn't have to pay for it with increased effort, I meant with the motor assistance! Without the assistance the full suspension and fat tyres just wouldn't have been an option for me. I'd be far too sweaty when I turned up to work. I still feel a bit guilty when I turn up to work after a comfortable effortless ride even quicker than I would have on my uncomfortable hybrid, but then that's the beauty of the electric bike I suppose.
I understand Caph. The comfort and lack of perspiration is the big bonus with our biking, and even the club types permit themselves the odd jealous comment to me on the longer climbs around here.
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Boby

Finding my (electric) wheels
Nov 27, 2008
23
0
energy efficient bike vs. bumpy roads resistant bike

Flecc – I am impressed with your analysis. You say that – if you optimize efficiency – the bike suspension is harmful. This conclusion is not popular since suspended bikes look cool, cost more and for these reasons are more popular.

No suspension bikes are more effective than suspended ones. But suspension can be useful on bumpy roads and makes the bike comfortable. So we come to the efficiency – comfort (or resistance) dilemma.

What I miss is the quantification. If you go though numbers you may reach truly useful conclusions. Like Alex Moulton – he introduced small 20” wheels and overcompensated increased rolling resistance with high pressure tires and suspended wheels. BTW – the Moulton movie (alex moulton — Google Video) pictures your thesis that front fork consumes rider’s effort (6:50).

This problem has practical implications. I am looking for a bike to make it electric (probably eLation or Cyclone kit). It should be energy efficient and bumpy roads resistant. Probably a road bike is not a good idea – it is efficient but may be too delicate and uncomfortable. Is a vertical downhill bike a solution? Probably not. Bumpy roads resistant but energy inefficient. Front and rear suspension and heavy 26x2.30 off-road tires make it hard to ride.

Would a vertical downhill bike equipped with 120psi 26x1 slick tires become energy efficient? If yes – to what extend? (please do not tell me about overweight, I should reduce my weight first). Downhill huge suspension travel may be useless in the e-bike – any other idea to merge comfort (and bumpy roads resistance) with energy efficiency? Is a classical Moulton a good compromise (www.foldingbikes.co.uk - Moulton TSR)?

Can we learn the estimated rolling resistance of the road bike and heavy full suspension downhill with off-road tires and the same downhill bike with slick tires? I wonder what makes a mountain bike so slow. Mainly tires or mainly suspension or both?

Another aspect is the bike stability at high speed. I just learned about a Cyclone 1000W kit (max speed 70kph in a folder). Interesting option. I may have an opportunity to register the bike as an experimental vehicle so do not have to care much of 250W limit.

On the other hand I will need a range of at least 20km and do not want to waste the energy in tires or suspension.

I am not sure whether should I trust a standard road frame (and brakes) at 50kph. Downhill frame (and brakes) looks more reliable (I cannot send a picture from my local disc, I mean the third bike (rather untypical geometry for a DH): :: cycletool :: high performance bikes ::
 
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flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
52,826
30,388
Would a vertical downhill bike equipped with 120psi 26x1 slick tires become energy efficient? If yes – to what extend? (please do not tell me about overweight, I should reduce my weight first). Downhill huge suspension travel may be useless in the e-bike – any other idea to merge comfort (and bumpy roads resistance) with energy efficiency? Is a classical Moulton a good compromise?

Can we learn the estimated rolling resistance of the road bike and heavy full suspension downhill with off-road tires and the same downhill bike with slick tires? I wonder what makes a mountain bike so slow. Mainly tires or mainly suspension or both?
I don't think the downhill bike with slim high pressure tyres would be a productive solution, suspension and tyre characteristics are then in opposition in efficiency terms, one trying to compensate for the other.

On the flat, mountain bike inefficiency is normally caused by the tyres usually fitted as standard*, but when hill climbing the suspension can become the more energy wasting factor, especially when standing on the pedals and putting in high effort.

That last factor doesn't normally apply on electric assist bikes where we rarely stand on the pedals, and this emphasises that compromises with them are acceptable. Therefore one solution is moderate front suspension with a sprung seatpost and low rolling resistance medium width tyres. A second more unconventional solution if the bike can accept them is a rigid frame and fork bike equipped with Schwalbe Big Apple tyres, which add some effective suspension with low rolling resistance.

*The rolling resistance of knobbly tread tyres is often speed dependent. The spacing between tread blocks allows the bike to "drop" into the gap between them, so making progress a matter of constantly climbing very small hills as tread blocks are mounted. At a certain point of road speed, the time interval passing the tread block gaps is insufficient for the wheel to drop in the time allowed by acceleration due to gravity (32' per second/per second). At that speed and above the rolling resistance can reduce quite markedly and be noticeable to the rider. In my experience that speed is often between 10 and 13 mph with popular slightly knobbly mountain bike tyres.
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Boby

Finding my (electric) wheels
Nov 27, 2008
23
0
Thank you for explanations.

I started to think about this DH after I fell in a big hole in the snow two weeks ago (standard hardtail bike). Faster you ride more often such things happen. As john pointed out it is the air not tires or suspension to consume power at high speeds.

DH has a strong frame and other solid components (brakes!). This particular DH has a quasi-touring geometry – handlebar at the height of 115cm from the ground. Solid construction should make it safer at high speeds.

flecc says that solution is moderate front suspension with a sprung seatpost and low rolling resistance medium width tyres. I still like 20” bikes because of their portability. Can separable Pashley Moulton with 20x1,5 Schwalbe Marathon tires meet this test? What do you think about this configuration: Endless-sphere.com • View topic - Miles' Project 1 [eMoulton] (I prefer chain drive system but the motor location is a perfect idea).
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
52,826
30,388
That Miles Moulton conversion looks efficient, very limited rear suspension and limited front suspension probably with good control.

The standard Marathon 20" x 1.5" tyres would probably improve the comfort and suspension slightly, but not the Marathon Plus in that size which are rather stiff walled. (My main bike is also a 20" wheel one with the Marathon Plus tyres).
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