BMSBattery Controller Amps

[alban]

Just received this info from Judy at BMSbattery for those interested.
(Not readily available for all of them on their site):

KU123 controller ; Over current : 30A

KU93 controller ; Over current : 22A

KU63 controller/ KU64 controller: Over current : 15A

 

[alban]

Actually the KU63 looks like 12A on their site - but maybe it's been changed since they posted it?

 

[Scottyf]

That's about right although my ku93 is 20amp peak.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

They seem to be diferent with every order. I don't think that I've ever had two the same. They keep changing the features too: self learning, cruise control, speed control, etc. It's always a mystery what you're going to get, though I've never been disappointed.

You can easily change the amps by either soldering the shunt to increase it, or (as I just found out) you can shave it to reduce the amps. So I'd say:
KU63 10 to 20 amps
KU93 15 to 30 amps
KU123 20 to 40 amps

 

[hech]

so if I apply a wee blob of solder to the shunt on the ku63 controller, the motor should be able to draw more amps? Speed is limited by voltage so an increase in current will only provide more hill climbing capability?

 

[NRG]

Yes, the motor phase amps increase indirectly. Soldering the shunt allows more draw from the battery and as the motor phase amps are based on a simple multiplication of the battery current they increase too.

You have to be careful though, you place the battery under more stress and may reduce its life depending on how far you take it plus your range will be reduced, so its a trade off....

You can go the other way as well by putting little 'nicks' in the shunt to lower the amp draw and reduce power...

 

[Scottyf]

Another reason why Electronics are far more interesting to play around with.
Tuning a car takes considerable about of precision and engineering. Monkeying about with an Ebike takes very small effort to get it setup up to how you want it to perform.

Electronics are also alot cleaner than becoming a grease monkey!

The most I could squeeze out the KU93 was 27amps (up from 20amps) but dialed it down as I didn't need such a harsh take off or accleration.

Thanks for the above!

 

[hech]

I was thinking of upgrading from ku63 to ku93 to get a few more amps, but also then going 48v in due course. Its a cheap controller and accepts pedelec and throttle I understand. Be nice if it accepted the cycle analyst too but thereyego. many thanks for the advice.

 

[Fordulike]

Just out of interest, do the KU series of controllers have connectors that directly match the hub motors, throttles and brake cut-offs that BMSbattery sells?

 

[hech]

I imagine most of their controllers come with connectors but the motors , brakes etc do not. Probably have to thread some of these cables thro the loom so makes sense to match them only when they arrive at the controller case. Controllers seem to vary in what functions they offer.

 

[Scottyf]

Main wires like phase are usually bullets.
The res the connectors are quite univeral but you may as well change them for what you want.

There's no garantee that they will be perfect anyway. As with most stuff out of China. Sometimes they have got the actual wires the wrong way round on some of the connectors.

 

[aseb]

my controller came from lyen (hand built) and is programmable. Voltage - 36 to 100V. Current up to 65A (can be increased by building up the shunts and solder traces then reprogramming. I don't think it's something I'll ever need to do though!

 

[Scottyf]

I've also though about purchasing one from lurk just because the additional wide range of voltages you can have and the ability to program them.
This kind of future proofs most builds but they are a bit more expensive.

Which fet version you got for the 6/9/12??