Budget Controller With alarm wiring - Help.

[Ajax]

Hi all. I picked up a budget controller off Amazon and then a virtually identical controller on eBay. I have identified most of the wiring. Both controllers have dedicated power and connection wiring for an alarm.

My question is this, will i have to short the connection to the alarm to get it to work? The alarm allows you to connect a key fob to power the controller, much like a regular key switch circuit,
As I don't have an alarm to act as this key, can i just ignore the alarm wiring, or would i have to short one of the wires [orange] in the alarm to the alarm positive? Has anyone had any experience with these budget controllers?

I was thinking i could wire the alarm wires in parallel to the send and 'return' wires from my key switch. This way in the future i could use a regular key and/or a key fob to turn the bike on and off.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CJV9GR4B?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_dt_b_fed_asin_title_0_0

Pardon our interruption...

Has anyone had a play with these generic controllers?

 

[saneagle]

The alarm connector is normally just a branch off the battery wires to provide power for an accessory. If you want a switch of some sort, it goes on the ignition wire connector, normally labelled "lock". Your controller probably won't work unless you bridge the lock wires somehow. If the controller doesn't power up (5v on the throttle red), and you can't identify the ignition wire, open the controller. It'll be the wire that's connected to the pad next to the big resistor, possibly marked vcc. Connect it to any battery positive.

 

[Ajax]

The alarm connector is normally just a branch off the battery wires to provide power for an accessory. If you want a switch of some sort, it goes on the ignition wire connector, normally labelled "lock". Your controller probably won't work unless you bridge the lock wires somehow. If the controller doesn't power up (5v on the throttle red), and you can't identify the ignition wire, open the controller. It'll be the wire that's connected to the pad next to the big resistor, possibly marked vcc. Connect it to any battery positive.

Thanks

The controller has a wire-labeled door which i have connected to the key switch, i just wondered about the 3 wires for the alarm, and if I needed to connect one of those to the battery positive. They are, orange, yellow and blue,

 

[saneagle]

i just wondered about the 3 wires for the alarm, and if I needed to connect one of those to the battery positive. They are, orange, yellow and blue,

I'm not sure of that. Some ebikes, like the Eskute scooter have a remote keyfob switch that works a proprietary alarm and remote switch-on system. It must be for something like that.

 

[Ajax]

OK, for anyone on the same quest, I just found out that the Yellow is a signal ground, the Blue is a signal wire 5v, and the Red carries the battery's positive voltage.

If the yellow and blue are shorted, the bike is locked, e.g., the throttle won't work. This means that if you aren't using the alarm function, you won't need to connect anything to that harness.

I found the following very useful.

 

[Ajax]

Last word on these budget controllers. I got it to work. The only thing i really needed to do was connect the 'door wire' to the battery/alarm positive, eg enable the controller via the throttle key switch. I used the alarm power to power the lights via a 12v 3mp step-down transformer. The odd thing is the power to the alarm/lights is always on, which makes sense as it is meant to power the alarm. That said, it's kind of obvious how you would turn off that alarm. The only thing i missed the first time was the correct wiring of the throttle.

Next, i would like to add a PAS or a bottom bracket torque sensor instead of, or as well as the throttle. You would think someone would have a budget kit on the market.

 

[saneagle]

Next, i would like to add a PAS or a bottom bracket torque sensor instead of, or as well as the throttle. You would think someone would have a budget kit on the market.

Topbikekit do such a kit with tickbox options for all the other stuff.

 

[Woosh]

Kclamber has a very clever torque sensor and pedal assist sensor inside a freehub.
Tongsheng and aikema put that kit inside their 85SX hub motor. Installation is extremely simple, plug and play. Just connect the motor, battery and LCD to the controller. No need to worry about how to fit the PAS. You can fit one of those in about 15 minutes. No special tool needed.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

Kclamber has a very clever torque sensor and pedal assist sensor inside a freehub.
Tongsheng and aikema put that kit inside their 85SX hub motor. Installation is extremely simple, plug and play. Just connect the motor, battery and LCD to the controller. No need to worry about how to fit the PAS. You can fit one of those in about 15 minutes. No special tool needed.

Can't help feeling that is far superior and cheaper solution to 'Skarper' for those that want to use their bike powered or unpowered. Just have an 85SX wheel with tyre, cassette and disc rotor hung up in the garage and swap it in or out , add a bag battery and you are off

 

[Woosh]

The Kclamber sensor is godsend for carbon frames. You don't have to worry about BB86, PF86 etc.

 

[saneagle]

The Kclamber sensor is godsend for carbon frames. You don't have to worry about BB86, PF86 etc.

How reliable is it?
How long does it last?
How much is a replacement?

 

[Woosh]

How reliable is it?
How long does it last?
How much is a replacement?

I only had it since last summer, too early to tell how reliable it is or how long it will last.
The sensor is small though. Do you remember my early torque sensor in the rear hub about 10 years ago? That one had 4 coil springs inside the hub. You tested it and told me that it hit the maximum a bit too early. The Kclamber does not produce the knocking sound like the old torque sensor did when you stand on the pedal but I still don't know how it works.