Cleaning ebike.

fmm1000

Pedelecer
Mar 9, 2014
30
22
57
My brother who is a lycra guy is picking on me. He saw my ebike which I rarely clean because I am a total non handyman.
He cleaned the chain and the bike shifts gear much better now and the top speed is now 32 and not 30.

He asked me if he should take off the back wheel and clean the cassette
Thats when I started worrying a bit.

Can you take off the back wheel from my bh easy motion ebikes as on normal bikes.
Are there no really risks of making troubles on all the ebike stuff.

He also suggested me to get a new cassette. Can I use which ever I want or am I narrowed because it is an ebike.
 

halfer

Esteemed Pedelecer
I'd expect BH E-motion bikes to use a standard cassette. Is yours a crank or a hub drive? What model is it specifically?
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
My bike is a bh easy motion neo race.
The motor sits in the back wheel.
I believe that the early Neos had the BPM2 motor with freewheel gears, and the later ones have a Dapu motor with a cassette. If you have the Dapu motor, you can fit any cassette.
 

fmm1000

Pedelecer
Mar 9, 2014
30
22
57
I have a 2013 Jumper with a Bafang motor and a 2014 race with a dapu motor. Can I fit any cassette on both bikes then.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
It could be more complicated. It's possible that they used the Bafang CST motor as well at some point.

Use Google to search for free-hub gears (cassette) and free-wheel gears. Look at the retaining cap that holds the top gear in place to see the difference between the two types. The free-wheel one normally is inside the cluster, while as the cassette one sits over some of the top gear. Another quick way is to count the number of teeth on the top gear. If you have 11T, it's unlikely to be a free-wheel. If you have 13T or 14T, it's unlikely to be a cassette.

Use the Google images so that you can recognise the difference.
 

EddiePJ

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jul 7, 2013
4,632
4,013
Crowborough, East Sussex
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As you have never removed the rear wheel before, here is a pretty basic (agricultural) video for you.


The first time that you do it, you might struggle, but after time, it only takes a few minutes to both remove and replace the wheel.

Some handy hints to make life easier.

1. Put white correction marker on the arrows of the cable plug that has to be disconnected. It makes re fitting easier, as you aren't struggling to line the connector back up again.

2. Before removing said connector, pull it through slightly and fit a cable tie to prevent it going back inside of the frame. This has never happened to me, but the potential is there.

3. Although tempting, don't remove the kidney shaped lug from the wheel spindle. Leaving it on makes guiding the rear wheel back in very easy.

4. Don't tamper with the rear torque sensor. There's no need.
 
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