configuration for the idiots

[Low]

Even understanding what im asking from the picture and my description will be impressive! Il try my best...

I have some lightweight trunking, its wide enough for 5 18650s and im going to make a hollow triangle from it and frame mount battery and controler, the trunking has a handy lip to so will then just gasket sealer and pot rivot the ally sides on, prob is im strugling with assemblimg the battery, this is a cardboard cut out of the rough areas im working with



So if you have any idea from that photo where im at... Its a 13s 7p and Conecting bank 4 to bank 5 is my dilema, can i just use 3" long nicol strip to run across? Really dont want to solder unless i have to.

Ignore the 35 cells in the pic should be (42)
Left hand block 5 deep 10 high
Right hand block 5 deep 8 high

Il have a couple of cells to fit in somewhere also prob under the controller

So one row 5 deep 10 high and another row 5 deep 8 high, how would you tally up 91 cells?

Ps fox thing was an accident but then reading this far earns you a laugh!

 

[Mac_user82]

It would be easier just to buy a seat post pannier rack to save the messing around and your time about 5 mins to fit and forget


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Low]

Yes Mac_user82, yes it would.

Im trying to over engineer this, i want strong ridgid, water proof and secure, i have paint codes and intend on a compartment that looks like it came out of the factory.

Soon il have the exact internal measurements and just need advice on how best to stack up the cells, bag advice.. Not so much

 

[Mac_user82]

Depending on the weather sometimes i should of thought it would get damp because i have canopy on my bike and even sometimes when in heavy rain it does get wet and as you can see its quite a good canopy

 

[Low]

My first build was a motorcycle tank bag really dry.

This build is me addicted to ebikes trying for the perfect setup for me, my metal triangle will be water tight.. Maybe a couple of vomitbowel satchets in there for good measure.

 

[Low]

Can anyone smarter than me see any major issues with wiring a pack up like this?
Getting from A to B is my dilema... The pack are going to be facing each other with a rubber divider (as if the two pages in the photo were a book and i was to close the book)

Hoping someones brain works like mine and understands that

 

[Mac_user82]

May i ask your style of riding,

More weight means less range on your battery in the long run

When i am pulling a trailer along i know that I'm pulling it because i do lose a few miles from pulling it along on my bike

The trailer weight is 9 kilos load can be anything up to 56lbs and most of the time it isn't even half that weight and it does make a huge difference on the battery performance

10-mile commute can cost me 14 miles in total

My honest advice would be you need a happy medium here to get good range and good performance at the same time you might not be getting half the mileage due to the weight
factor

 

[Low]

Your bike made me smile mac user... Or should i say rain mac user

That is extreme mac, the kids round here would crucify me for such an addition...bigger tyres and you could cross the channel with the right wind!!

 

[Low]

My style is15miles flat out one way, no pedeling, no towing no baggage.

So nice light frame and forks samsung 25rs with just over 17ah at 48v 1000wat

Its all good, just putting it together, want a build that will last and not fall to bits if i crash or get wet.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I don't like the idea of aluminium. It's conductive, so you need good insulation to prevent a short.

It's not too difficult to make a fibreglass battery case. i made up this one as I went along, and I could now do it better from what I learnt.

Cut 5mm plywood into strips about 600 wide. Cut it to lengths so that you can make the shape of the inside of the frame triangle, leaving about 6mm gap all round. Temporarily wedge them in place and use fibreglass strips to glue the corners together. Round the corners a bit. That will give you a basic structure the shape of your frame triangle gap.

Make a couple of plugs out of softwood and plywood the same shape as that structure.It needs to be at least 37.5mm thick. Round the edges a bit. Fill, sand and polish it.



Cover the plug in wax by rubbing a wax candle all over it, then lay three layers of thin fiberglass woven cloth over it (with resin of course), ans finally one layer of finishing cloth. When it's set, slit the corners with a Dremmel and peal off the moulding. Once off, repair the corners with a bit of cloth and resin.



Put a pencil on a block the right height for the final thickness you want and run round the moulding to draw the line. Trim it to the line.

You'll have to play about a bit with trimming the wooden frame in the corners to make it fit properly, then screw one side to the wooden frame. repeat for the other side:



Sand and fill it until it's smooth, then you can prime and paint it with car paints or whatever.

I fixed mine with a single bracket at the top and the two bottle fixings with reinforcing washers on the inside.



Voila:



Make sure that you don't make it too wide where the chainwheel overlaps it. You can off-set it a bit to cover that or get a longer BB. You'll probably be OK at 750mm thick.

 

[Low]

You may have miaunderstood what im asking Mac, im asking the bedt way to connect block A with block B from my pic.

Iv got everything else in hand... Mostly thanks to the expert help on here, this is not my first rodeo

 

[Low]

Wow D8v that is beautuful!

 

[Low]

I see what you saying D8v re conductive cases.... Im defo going ally tho as my best mates a paint sprayer and has ordered the same paint going to go crazy thick with primer and paint inside plus thin rubber on all internal surfaces (bendy plastic place matts that i have laying around)

Like the light weight of ally and once rivoted up will be plenty strong enoug and water tight with gasket sealer.

will re-read your post tho as that is truely a perfect looking setup!

How does it ride?

 

[Low]

Also what sort of ah have you on that green one?

 

[Mac_user82]

Your bike made me smile mac user... Or should i say rain mac user

That is extreme mac, the kids round here would crucify me for such an addition...bigger tyres and you could cross the channel with the right wind!!

i must admit a lot of people do smile at me when i have it up and i am going down the road when it's tipping down

For example, the other day i was coming home from the next town and there was someone on the other side of the road and they looked like a drowned rat cycling and i was lovely crisp and dry

At the moment i am going to a lot of appointments so turning up dripping wet is not going to be going down to well at all really that why i bought it

Another thing it is great for is keeping that chill off you when its freezing cold i don't feel the chill hitting my face at all it does make cycling in the rotten weather more enjoyable

 

[flecc]

You may have miaunderstood what im asking Mac, im asking the bedt way to connect block A with block B from my pic.

When the two sides are folded in book fashion, A and B will be adjacent. So yes, a simple link will suffice, making it just long enough to open and close the two sides for service access.
.

 

[Low]

Ty flec, better buy myself a rubber bookmark before i close her up.

D8vs fibreglass has got me thinking a bit.. Ever heard of anyone just sending the dimensions off and having one of these 3D printed, iv heard the printers are getting better and cheaper all the time.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

How does it ride?

That was a special build for a guy with one leg. He needed a dropper post to be able to get on, hence the small frame. It was a 500W Bafang CST motor running at 48v and 23 amps. Top speed was about 24 mph, but built for torque rather than speed. IIRC, 13S6P I can't remember the Ah, but at least 15 Ah. There's a build thread on it somewhere.