Display unit or controller fault?

[Tony1951]

That looks ok. Nothing burned or obviously water contaminated.

I'm going to bet on the lcd being duff, or its connecting cable.

This is a guess though.

Maybe, also test continuity in the cable between the controler and the female socket. The lcd line might conceivably be open circuit in that bit of cable. Think of the way cheap earphone cables break continually. It can happen in e bike cables because of tight bends and over tight clips or zip ties.

Also, Saneagle mentioned a day or two back the cable attached to the controller getting broken internally by being too tight at full lock on the bars.

You may have a few wild goose chases before you find the problem

 

[saneagle]

OK, I managed to get at the controller and take a pic:

View attachment 64380

I can't see anything obviously wrong with the controller – but then, other than clearly broken connections, I don't really know what I'm looking for.

And here's the motor connector, which as you can see has 9 pins:

View attachment 64381

Sometimes that come out of the controller get pulled, but there's no sign of that. I can't see any sign of disturbance that would cause your problem.

On the plus side, the battery has a two-wire connection, so you can use any controller in a separate box or I think this one is a drop in replacement, but you need to check it from every angle to make sure that it's exactly the same shape as your one. You'd need the harness, LCD, pedal sensor and throttle to go with it, which comes to about £92. Everything would be plug and play apart from the two battery wires need soldering. You'd have to remove your pedals and BB to fit the new PAS.

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Personally, I prefer the box-type controllers with block connectors mounted in a bag or box because they're easier to test and a more flexible solution. Also you can get dual voltage ones, which means you have the option to go up to 48v when your battery needs replacing.

Considering everything, including the fact that your bike is still working, I wouldn't do anything just yet. Maybe the LCD will come back into stock. I would be writing to Eleglide and asking them what sort of bike are they selling that is rendered useless after a short time because they can't supply a key spare part. I'm sure they could get one or an alternative quickly if they wanted to.

Whenever I look at ebikes to recommend, I always look at the LCD, controller location and battery to see if they're the common catalogue items for easy replacement. You can still get caught out by things that look the same but are different, like the G20/ T320/T319/E06/DZ888 LED displays, but when you see KT LCDs or S866, you don't have to worry.

 

[Tony1951]

Sometimes that come out of the controller get pulled, but there's no sign of that. I can't see any sign of disturbance that would cause your problem.

On the plus side, the battery has a two-wire connection, so you can use any controller in a separate box or I think this one is a drop in replacement, but you need to check it from every angle to make sure that it's exactly the same shape as your one. You'd need the harness, LCD, pedal sensor and throttle to go with it, which comes to about £92. Everything would be plug and play apart from the two battery wires need soldering. You'd have to remove your pedals and BB to fit the new PAS.

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Personally, I prefer the box-type controllers with block connectors mounted in a bag or box because they're easier to test and a more flexible solution. Also you can get dual voltage ones, which means you have the option to go up to 48v when your battery needs replacing.

Considering everything, including the fact that your bike is still working, I wouldn't do anything just yet. Maybe the LCD will come back into stock. I would be writing to Eleglide and asking them what sort of bike are they selling that is rendered useless after a short time because they can't supply a key spare part. I'm sure they could get one or an alternative quickly if they wanted to.

Whenever I look at ebikes to recommend, I always look at the LCD, controller location and battery to see if they're the common catalogue items for easy replacement. You can still get caught out by things that look the same but are different, like the G20/ T320/T319/E06/DZ888 LED displays, but when you see KT LCDs or S866, you don't have to worry.

I wonder what the new Product Regulation and Metrology Act 2025, passing through Parliament might do to the availability of readily repairable e-bikes and parts. Some have said that it will increase canbus type designs which means you won't be as able to mix and match parts, or maybe even get any part to fit a manufactured e-bike - except from the original supplier - and we know how quickly they lose interest in stocking spares for models that are a very few years old.

I see more scrap bikes than ever if that goes ahead.

Interestingly, the actual bill does not specify WHAT regulations about products will be applied, only that the Secretary of State may enact regulations on such matters. No doubt busy bodies and control freaks are already writing letters about deep technical things about how batteries will talk to controllers and prevent amateur people repairing the kind of broken e-bikes we see on here every other day. They will go straight to the scrap yard in future. Four years old and ready to be chopped up and recycled.

Product Regulation and Metrology Act 2025

www.legislation.gov.uk

 

[saneagle]

I wonder what the new Product Regulation and Metrology Act 2025, passing through Parliament might do to the availability of readily repairable e-bikes and parts. Some have said that it will increase canbus type designs which means you won't be as able to mix and match parts, or maybe even get any part to fit a manufactured e-bike - except from the original supplier - and we know how quickly they lose interest in stocking spares for models that are a very few years old.

I see more scrap bikes than ever if that goes ahead.

Interestingly, the actual bill does not specify WHAT regulations about products will be applied, only that the Secretary of State may enact regulations on such matters. No doubt busy bodies and control freaks are already writing letters about deep technical things about how batteries will talk to controllers and prevent amateur people repairing the kind of broken e-bikes we see on here every other day. They will go straight to the scrap yard in future. Four years old and ready to be chopped up and recycled.

Product Regulation and Metrology Act 2025

www.legislation.gov.uk

All the interested parties will do their lobbying. Unfortunately, we don't have any representation, so it's a bit one-sided. I guess that soon we'll be seeing cheap CANbus readers all over Aliexpress, like you get the £8.50 OBD2 readers from Ebay for your car.

 

[RobG_UK]

Sometimes that come out of the controller get pulled, but there's no sign of that. I can't see any sign of disturbance that would cause your problem.

On the plus side, the battery has a two-wire connection, so you can use any controller in a separate box or I think this one is a drop in replacement, but you need to check it from every angle to make sure that it's exactly the same shape as your one. You'd need the harness, LCD, pedal sensor and throttle to go with it, which comes to about £92. Everything would be plug and play apart from the two battery wires need soldering. You'd have to remove your pedals and BB to fit the new PAS.

I'm still not sure whether I'd be up to the task of making such a change. Perhaps with help from experienced folk like yourself I might. I'm hoping it doesn't come to that.

Considering everything, including the fact that your bike is still working, I wouldn't do anything just yet. Maybe the LCD will come back into stock. I would be writing to Eleglide and asking them what sort of bike are they selling that is rendered useless after a short time because they can't supply a key spare part. I'm sure they could get one or an alternative quickly if they wanted to.

Yes, I'm planning to wait a bit and see if the display comes back into stock. They're still saying they're hoping to get "a small number of displays" back into stock next week, with more to follow in due course. I'm monitoring their online store daily.

Up to now I've deliberately adopted a courteous and non-conflictual tone with Eleglide rather than risk antagonising them into being less than helpful. To be fair, they've responded quickly to my emails, apologised for the inconvenience and kept me in the loop about when they expect to restock. (Unless they're just bullshitting to placate me, but I see no reason to assume that at this stage.)

Whenever I look at ebikes to recommend, I always look at the LCD, controller location and battery to see if they're the common catalogue items for easy replacement. You can still get caught out by things that look the same but are different, like the G20/ T320/T319/E06/DZ888 LED displays, but when you see KT LCDs or S866, you don't have to worry.

Of course, with the benefit of hindsight I wish I'd given consideration to such factors before buying my bike. Live and learn…

 

[saneagle]

Of course, with the benefit of hindsight I wish I'd given consideration to such factors before buying my bike. Live and learn…

Yes, you can see it easily when it's too late. Even when we give that advice, people don't get it because there frame of reference tells them that expensive means quality, but the worst quality you have is when your bike doesn't work and it can't be fixed.

It reminds me of when my sailboat was launched after winter haul-out. I needed to put it on one of the boatyards moorings while I sorted stuff out. The tide was really strong. When I got to the mooring, it had no strop attached to it, so I had to thread a rope through the hoop on top of it. I positioned my boat along side, but by the time I'd walked from the steering position, laid down on the deck to reach it and got the rope ready, the tide moved me away. The tide was too strong to hold the hoop with the boathook. Obviously, first time, the difficulty took me by surprise. I circled back for a second attempt, while making a plan in my head. It nearly worked, but I ran out of time again. On the third attempt, I had success. I rowed ashore in the dingy to sort out my car. When I got ashore, there was an old sea salt standing there, looking like captain Bird's-eye puffing on his hooked pipe, who had been observing me. He said, "What I would have done would be to row out to the buoy in the dingy and attach a strop before the boat was launched". I said to him, "Yes, I knew that afterwards too. I don't remember you mentioning that before I launched the boat".

 

[RobG_UK]

people don't get it because there frame of reference tells them that expensive means quality

I paid £670 for my ebike two years ago. Since then I've probably spent another £2–300 on replacements and upgrades. Of course, most of these were optional rather than essential, but even so it has bumped up the overall cost of the bike. If I'd have been able to stump up an extra £300 at the time of purchase, I wonder whether I might have ended up with an overall more reliable bike. But I didn't have the extra cash at the time, so I bought what I could afford at the time and then improved it over the last two years.

 

[thelarkbox]

Chances are any ebike display undergoing a similar 2 yrs of use and bumps/knocks could develop a similar fault regardless of the cost.. It is perhaps the most exposed and vulnerable aspect of the system

It sounds as if a replacement lcd if it becomes available would be a fair punt, but if its a loosing bet a replacement controller is a do-able job. just post any issues you have for direction and options..

 

[RobG_UK]

Chances are any ebike display undergoing a similar 2 yrs of use and bumps/knocks could develop a similar fault regardless of the cost.. It is perhaps the most exposed and vulnerable aspect of the system

It sounds as if a replacement lcd if it becomes available would be a fair punt, but if its a loosing bet a replacement controller is a do-able job. just post any issues you have for direction and options..

Thanks for taking the time to comment. I'm crossing my fingers and hoping a replacement controller will solve it

 

[Nealh]

All the displays I have used (mainly KT but have had the odd Lishui compatible one's ), have all stood up to abuse, weather, terrible off road terrain and jarring . Never yet had one failed .
My current LCD3 is over eight years old and is one supplied with the first Yose KT kits many years ago.

Though all of these are generic uart displays, when one adds more to them like Bt it is another level of software to go wrong. One only needs an app update for a spanner to be thrown in the works.

 

[RobG_UK]

All the displays I have used (mainly KT but have had the odd Lishui compatible one's ), have all stood up to abuse, weather, terrible off road terrain and jarring . Never yet had one failed .
My current LCD3 is over eight years old and is one supplied with the first Yose KT kits many years ago.

Though all of these are generic uart displays, when one adds more to them like Bt it is another level of software to go wrong. One only needs an app update for a spanner to be thrown in the works.

Eleglide claims that the LCD on my bike has an IPX4 rating, which means it should be fine in light rain at least. In truth I've rarely used it in wet conditions.

Never had a firmware update for it either.

 

[saneagle]

Eleglide claims that the LCD on my bike has an IPX4 rating, which means it should be fine in light rain at least. In truth I've rarely used it in wet conditions.

Water in it is only down as a possibility. We don't yet know the cause of your problem and we don't yet know if a replacement LCD would solve it. Personally, I don't like to buy replacement stuff unless I've found the cause of the problem and I know that the replacement part will solve it, but it's not so easy for you with limited test knowledge and equipment.

Have you got a price yet for the replacement LCD? If not, it might be worth finding out before betting on that option.