Hello!

[FatRich172]

Hi everyone, just getting into the idea of an ebike conversion to use as a commuter. Keen cyclist but old and fat... 20 mile commute which I do occasionally looking to do it more often.
Have old rigid MTB or road bike or even a Crossy to convert. Currently focused on the MTB.
Thinking of initial front hub version as these seem cheaper and easy to install.
I came to this site as I don't want a huge loom of wires somewhere on the build...
Rich

 

[sjpt]

Most important, do NOT go for the nominally high powered direct drive motors. They are initially cheap but chew battery (so you need an expensive one) and are not good at hill climbing. And are illegal.

Rear hub is probably worth the extra effort to install over front hub, more consistent drive especially uphill where front drive can slip (*). Apparently crank drive is pretty much as easy to fit (unless you have cable guides brazed under the bottom bracket). Most people here recommend rear hub for commute. Woosh is a good source of kits and gives excellent service, they are a bit short on immediately available choice at the moment. https://wooshbikes.co.uk/

(*) We've got Woosh front kit on our tandem and it's fine with the added benefit of separate drive on front and back eg on slippery uphill grass; but weight distribution is different on a tandem.

 

[FatRich172]

Thanks for the info!
I picked up that rear hub kits may limit gearing options? Though in truth the crossy and MTB are old school 8 speed cassettes.
Yes need power as live in Cumbria and hills are everywhere. Will check out Whoosh!
I am reasonably fit cyclist and looking for something to boost speed/lower effort especially on the climbs still want to put some effort in and burn calories... Currently taking ~1.5hrs each way on the commute (wind depending...) Which makes for a long day... especially in the winter.
Also kit needs good wet resistance up here too!
Sorry for silly basic question...I assume I can set up a system that kicks in based on pedalling medium to high torque? So helps at the top end of "effort" only?
Any advice recommendations welcome.

 

[sjpt]

There are two kinds of sensors; torque and cadence. Torque tend to be used on more expensive bikes/kits and in conjunction with crank motors, cadence on cheaper hub motor ones; that a generalization and not always the case.

The torque ones multiply your torque depending on setting level; typically at lowest level it gives 50% (2/3 you, 1/3 motor), and at highest it gives 300% (1/4 you 3/4 parts motor); exact values vary from motor to motor.

The cadence ones give a certain power depending on whether you are pedalling or not; the amount of power varies with the setting. (A few try to reach a certain speed depending on setting, which is generally not very satisfactory.) They are not really cadence, just on/off (are you pedalling or not). Very easy to change level as you approach a hill.

Torque is more natural, just like having stronger legs. BUT you always need to put in some effort. With cadence you can ghost pedal, keep the pedals turning with no effort and the motor will work. Can be very handy if you are tired and get a big hill near home; also for certain disabilities.

 

[vfr400]

A rear hub-motor is normally best for commuting and general cycling on roads. A middle motor gets the advantage if you have very steep hills. A mid motor generally is less user-friendly, has higher running costs and is less dependable. A front motor can work, but will slip on steep hills, they upset your steering a bit and are not suitable for all forks. Also, there are some safety issues if you don't install them correctly.

It's Woosh, not Whoosh in case you can't find them.

 

[FatRich172]

There are two kinds of sensors; torque and cadence. Torque tend to be used on more expensive bikes/kits and in conjunction with crank motors, cadence on cheaper hub motor ones; that a generalization and not always the case.

The torque ones multiply your torque depending on setting level; typically at lowest level it gives 50% (2/3 you, 1/3 motor), and at highest it gives 300% (1/4 you 3/4 parts motor); exact values vary from motor to motor.

The cadence ones give a certain power depending on whether you are pedalling or not; the amount of power varies with the setting. (A few try to reach a certain speed depending on setting, which is generally not very satisfactory.) They are not really cadence, just on/off (are you pedalling or not). Very easy to change level as you approach a hill.

Torque is more natural, just like having stronger legs. BUT you always need to put in some effort. With cadence you can ghost pedal, keep the pedals turning with no effort and the motor will work. Can be very handy if you are tired and get a big hill near home; also for certain disabilities.

Thanks! I think the Torque sensor sounds like the way I need to go.

 

[Fat Rat]

Welcome