Kalkhoff Pro Connect Impulse 9 / 10 (9-G/10-G)

SteveRuss

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 12, 2015
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As for value, well no contest. A new Kalkoff 17Ah battery costs in the region of £800 - totally ludicrous -
I agree. How anyone come up with that price for those batteries alludes me.

I'm on my second as well but the first failure was on warranty. The second one has been flawless so far though so maybe the issue has been (is being) resolved).

If I bought another battery it would be a well researched one for a few hundred squids.
 

trex

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 15, 2011
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you could consider recelling instead of buying a new one.
 

hopbackguy

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Jun 11, 2015
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Horndean, Hampshire
@Tomtomato @Simo regarding the handlebar creak, mine was simply solved by my local bike mechanic when he did the first service by simply undoing the stem and clamp bolts, lubricating, and doing them up tight again. No more creak from the handlebars!
 
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Tomtomato

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Apr 28, 2015
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As for value, well no contest. A new Kalkoff 17Ah battery costs in the region of £800 - totally ludicrous - I would rather put the bike in a skip rather than pay that sort of money again.
I am not planning to ever buy one, so its cost is not that relevant to me. In 5 years' time, I will probably have another bike anyway, and if the battery does not last a satisfactory time, I will use SOGA and will get a replacement (particularly when the number of charges etc can be easily demonstrated).

I agree £800 is nowhere near the cost, but then it's more like £660 if purchased in continental Europe. Like all premium products, the spare parts/accessories are overpriced, and in line with the total price of the goods.
 

Tomtomato

Esteemed Pedelecer
Apr 28, 2015
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I have now replaced the original seatpost on my Pro Connect 10 with the SP12 NCX Suntour with suspension (31.6mm diameter).

Was very easy to install, and original saddle is fully compatible.

Makes quite a big change in the bike comfort. I feared (reading reviews) that there would be too much movement back and forth (as opposed to up and down), but it's not noticeable.

Ordered from Bike Discount.de in Germany, and received within a couple of days. Paid around £42 delivered. Neoprene cover was included, which was not expected.

The only confusion is that, according to the manual, the suspension cannot be made softer (from the factory setting), as we are not supposed to go anti-clockwise further than the original position.
 
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Tomtomato

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Apr 28, 2015
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Bike has done about 900 miles now.

I have checked the chain with a wear tool, and it does not have to be replaced yet (but probably soon). I think Kalkhoff's recommendation is 1,500 kilometers.

However, there is an ongoing motor noise: after about 45/60 minutes, there is a fairly loud clicking noise from the pedals/crank area (once per rev). Noise stops as soon as the motor is disabled (while still pedaling the same way), so does not seem to be a standard mechanical noise (e.g. pedals or chain).

Initially, the bike was only doing that noise when assistance was set to the maximum (e.g. slope), but then it would stop. However, now, the clicking is happening on each trip after a while, even on the low "eco" mode.

A couple of times, the crank made a lot of noise (like some cog jumping), when changing the assistance level while being still (traffic light), and then restarting (without changing gears).

Apart from the annoying noise, no other apparent issues, and the bike has been going well.

Bike is now in the shop for a motor replacement under warranty. I'd rather have such fault developing while under warranty!
 
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Roger R

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Jul 6, 2015
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Mmm. Very interesting. I have the 10 and done 600 miles in about 3 months. Had the same worrying noise but only up steep hills and in max power. Also only occurred twice. Reported took 50 cycles and they said to let the motor 'bed in'. Generally really pleased with the bike and I also mostly use it in Eco mode or no power at all. Will need to monitor this whilst it's in warrantee
 

Tomtomato

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Apr 28, 2015
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I am also using the bike in Eco mode the vast majority of the time. The clicking noise while the motor was strained on high assistance was not really an issue (as temporary), but the ongoing noise now happening in "normal" Eco mode, at moderate speed, is more annoying/distracting (as the motor is very quiet otherwise).

I though it could be something to do with the chain/crank and high torque applied. However, I was pedaling hard going down a slope recently, and there was no noise when in "manual" mode.

Occasionally, the noise has stopped when pedaling in reverse for a few revs (the chain does not actually move), and then forward, as if something was not engaging properly at the front (clutch?).

I don't really know if it's just a noise, or an indication of something failing (as the bike is fine otherwise, including assistance and distance achievable, no other symptoms), but they are dealing with it under warranty anyway.
 
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Tomtomato

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Apr 28, 2015
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Does your front wheel spin freely? I think the built-in dynamo on mine is creating some drag. When spinning the wheel by hand, it does not do so many revs (a lot fewer than the rear wheel, despite the cassette etc).

I wish they had connected the lights to the battery, as opposed to powering the lights from a dynamo. I don't think people would use very often an ebike without the battery, and lights are not going to use that much power, compared to the motor.

The idea of generating motion from a motor powered by a battery, to then convert that motion back to electricity via a dynamo does not seem that efficient.

Looks like the new 2016 Evo/Integrale range is not using dynamos anymore.
 
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One_Box

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Jul 29, 2014
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Cowbridge
It's a safety feature. If your battery ran out on a ride you would be without lights, with a dynamo obviously that doesn't happen.
Yes there is a small amount of drag when spinning the front wheel compared to a standard wheel but nothing you would notice when riding the bike.
I'm not certain why they are fitted however, maybe something to do with German law. If the 2016 bikes don't have dynamos maybe their law has been changed ?
 

Roger R

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Jul 6, 2015
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Seems a sensible move took me although I don't notice any drag when spinning my front wheel
 

JohnCade

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May 16, 2014
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No I have one too. The wheel doesn’t spin quite as long as without it but in practice you really can’t notice it. I leave my lights on all the time and forget about it.
 

RobF

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 22, 2012
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I've noticed quite a few 2016 Bosch bikes have lights wired direct from the battery.

Lack of a dynohub makes removing the front wheel easier, unless you have one of the hugely expensive dynohubs which have a wireless 'conection' between the hub and frame wiring.

As a general point, German road bikes over a certain weight are legally required to have lights, however they are powered.

Roadie bikes are exempt because they are under the weight limit.

Mountain bikes also don't have to have lights, presumably because they are not designed for the road.
 

Tomtomato

Esteemed Pedelecer
Apr 28, 2015
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No I have one too. The wheel doesn’t spin quite as long as without it but in practice you really can’t notice it. I leave my lights on all the time and forget about it.
I am not even sure it's possible to switch the front light off. When cycling, I usually get some people shouting at me, during daylight, "your light is on"!
 

JohnCade

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May 16, 2014
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I am not even sure it's possible to switch the front light off. When cycling, I usually get some people shouting at me, during daylight, "your light is on"!
With mine at least you have two settings. One is on, and the other is light sensor, so it comes on when it’s getting a bit dark. I think they really want you to have them on all the time, and daylight running lights are a good idea on bicycles as much as motorbikes and new cars.

When someone tells me my lights are on I reply thanks, I know.
 

Tomtomato

Esteemed Pedelecer
Apr 28, 2015
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My light has got two settings too, but I thought the first one was just flashing headlight (instead of steady when moving, and flashing when slowing down).

Yes, I would like to say "I know" when someone is mentioning the light being on, but I am usually too far at that point...

Motor has now been changed on my bike (under warranty), and the clicking noises are completely gone, whether the assistance is on high (in a slope) or eco mode. I cycled today for more than 3 hours, and there was not that noise once. The motor is now very quiet. It was good to get back on the road!
 
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Tomtomato

Esteemed Pedelecer
Apr 28, 2015
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Done about 200 miles since the motor was replaced, and still getting a virtually silent ride. Handlebar creaking was also fixed last time it went to the shop.

Bike has now done around 1,200 miles, and still has its original chain. According to my chain tool, it's still not at 0.75% wear.

One surprising fact is that the tires have never had to be inflated since the bike was purchased. Those tires don't seem to deflate at all, whereas the tires on my old non-electric bike had to be inflated every few weeks (and the bike was much lighter). I guess it's the benefit of those anti-puncture Marathon tires.
 

Roger R

Pedelecer
Jul 6, 2015
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Hi Tom. Really interesting. I have done about 700 miles and still get the occasional grinding noise going uphill in top power setting. Hardly ever use it though. Also have some noise in Eco but this could be normal. I need to video it while I'm riding to share it with you to compare. Roger
 

JohnCade

Esteemed Pedelecer
May 16, 2014
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Done about 200 miles since the motor was replaced, and still getting a virtually silent ride. Handlebar creaking was also fixed last time it went to the shop.

Bike has now done around 1,200 miles, and still has its original chain. According to my chain tool, it's still not at 0.75% wear.

One surprising fact is that the tires have never had to be inflated since the bike was purchased. Those tires don't seem to deflate at all, whereas the tires on my old non-electric bike had to be inflated every few weeks (and the bike was much lighter). I guess it's the benefit of those anti-puncture Marathon tires.
Bit surprising that the tyres have lost no air in that time. The Schwalbe inner tubes are pretty good at keeping air in but all tubes will leak air over a period of months. I pump mine up every couple of weeks and they’re always down a little. I keep them at 80 psi for good rolling. You do use a proper gauge? Because I have MP tyres too and they have very stiff walls which can give the impression of having a lot of air in them if you just pinch them.
 
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Tomtomato

Esteemed Pedelecer
Apr 28, 2015
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The Marathon tyres are indeed supposed to have stiff walls, so it could hide that a tyre is somewhat deflated. To be honest, I haven't checked the tyre pressure. However, when I ride the bike/put some weight on the bike, the tyres still look well inflated, which is surprising, after 5 months of using the bike.
 
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