Help! Lcd setting issues for s830 screen

Rabbashanks

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 6, 2019
18
0
Hey guys.
I recently purchased an ebike from greenhybridbikes in the uk.

While looking through the menu settings i fear i may have changed a couple of parameters and want to be sure they are correct before testing on the road.

There are 10 settings. 8 of which i believe are correct/as should be.

I downloaded a pdf manual but that only tells me how to change settings as they are dependent on my motor etc.

Setting P05: Power Gear – 0/3 Gear Mode: Gear 1: 2V Gear 2: 3V Gear 3: 4V
1/5 Gear Mode: Gear 1: 2V Gear 2: 2.5V Gear 3: 4V
Gear 4: 3.5V Gear 5: 4V

&

P07: Magnet Steel Number for Speed Test Range: 1-100

I contacted the shop i bought it from but they are currently unable to offer any advice...

I do know from the website i have a 36v11ah battery but no info on gear settings or magnet settings.
I am attaching photos of the bike, motor and screen & screenshot of the pdf file.

Any help would be massively appreciated!
 

Attachments

Rabbashanks

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 6, 2019
18
0
I'm unsure if I'm allowed to post a direct link to the bike and where i bought it...but if anyone needs it let me know.
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
3,103
934
Basildon
You have a display that communicates with the controller for pedal assist by analogue signal. P05 selects between 3 or 5 power levels. The controller is programmed to react to the voltage levels in the signal wire the same as if that were the throttle signal wire. You should be able to use either of the two settings. Although I said power levels above, they're actually speed levels. In Chinese, gear means speed.

P09 allows the throttle to work independently if you set it to 0.

The throttle signal wire must be shared with the LCD's pedal assist signal wire, which is why P10 doesn't allow independent throttle and pedal assist at the same time, otherwise the pedal assist levels would work like a hands free throttle or cruise control.

P07 is the speed sensor pulse frequency and should set to 1 unless you have a reason to set it to anything else. If your speed is reading right don't change it.

P12 looks like maximum current level on start up. It affects how forceful the motor is when you start to pedal. Setting it lower will give a more gentle start.

If you need any more power for hill climbing set P14 higher.
 
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Rabbashanks

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 6, 2019
18
0
Thank you so much for the reply.
I just made all the tweaks you mentioned.

I don't appear to have any mode past 10, so can't do 12 or 14. It seems to just go from 1 to 9 then 0 then 1 again.

I had one more question if you don't mind.
I've set p09 to 0 so i can use the throttle, and have p10 set to 2.

Is this correct to allow me to use the throttle when i like, but also have peddle assist?
I hope it's not a case of one or the other.

When i bought the bike i was told it was restricted to 15.5mph but had an offroad mode where it can go faster.
I can't see any offroad mode setting so I'm assuming they meant the speed can be increased. Any pointers on that side? Obviously i wouldn't mind a bit more power available if it won't kill my motor.

Thanks again, you have been a great help! Hopefully i can have it sorted to use for work friday!
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
3,103
934
Basildon
P9 set to 0 doesn't do anything when you have P10 set to 2. You can have pedal assist only, independent throttle only or pedal assist plus throttle that only works when you pedal.
 

Rabbashanks

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 6, 2019
18
0
Am i correct in thinking to use it throttle only i would need p09 set to 1 and p10 also set to 1?
Where as to have peddle assist (most important) but still have throttle when peddling, I'd need p09 on 1 and p10 on 2?

Sorry for being a total noob, first ebike and not that tech savvy. You have been extremely helpful so far.
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
3,103
934
Basildon
For throttle only, it's P9 set to 0 and P10 set to 1. In this version of Chinese, handlebar means throttle. I think the best setting is P9 set to 1 and P10 set to 2. That will mean that you can set a low pedal assist, and every time you need a burst of speed, you can use the throttle as long as you're pedalling. It's quicker to open the throttle than change from level 2 to 5.

Another option is to take the spring out of the throttle and set P9 to 1 and p10 to 1. That will give you infinitely adjustable pedal assist from the throttle. Whatever position the throttle is in when you're pedalling is the speed you'll get,so it'll work like a throttle and pedal assist. I don't know whether that overrides the P12 setting to give only strong power whenever you start pedalling. It probably does unless someone can tell us different.
 

Rabbashanks

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 6, 2019
18
0
Thanks again! You def know your stuff!
2 days and still no reply from the shop other than asking me what the issue was.

I've decided i will set p9 to 1 and p10 to 2 for the best of both worlds, with the option to put it back into throttle only if i ever want.

Before i leave this post, i did realise my menu does go to p16.

Do you have any thoughts on p13?
It's the only remaining setting I'm unsure of...
 

Rabbashanks

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 6, 2019
18
0
From further reading i think what I'm trying to ask (other than pmode 13) is can i have throttle overide and pas at the same time, either by settings, removing the spring as you mentioned, or would I need a seperate cable for the throttle i currently have?

Thanks for your patience
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
3,103
934
Basildon
The connection to the pedal assist is inside the controller. The signal wires must go in separately but share the same input to the CPU or something like that. The settings give the option of breaking the connection between them, but then only one can be connected to the CPU at the same time. When they're both connected to the same input, whichever one is highest is the one that determines the speed because if the pedal assist is on level one, you get say 2v, but you turn the throttle up to maximum, it'll raise it to 4v, so that's what the CPU will see.

P13 is to match the pedal sensor to the controller. If it's working, don't change it.

P14 is the interesting one because it controls the power. The higher the number, the more power you get and the faster your battery depletes. 12A default is pretty low unless you don't weigh much. 16A or 17A would liven things up a bit.
 

Rabbashanks

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 6, 2019
18
0
Are you saying that because they currently share a connection, there likely isn't a way to have both work at the same time as the two cables have only one input and have to share? Or is it likely there are more inputs and mine has been wired in a way thats possible to change so they both run independently as i like?
I'm trying to follow it, re reading it over and letting it sink in. Hopefully this isn't overly annoying for you to explain mate.
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
3,103
934
Basildon
The settings don't allow the pedal assist to work along with an independent throttle. You can have that with many controllers, but not with yours. It's logical that the reason is that their combined signals go into a single input. That input could be in the software or a physical pin on the CPU. Whatever it is, you can't change it. You must choose between one of these three.
1. Pedal assist only, no throttle
2. Completely independent throttle only, no pedal assist
3. Pedal assist plus throttle, where the throttle only works when you pedal.
 

Rabbashanks

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 6, 2019
18
0
The connection to the pedal assist is inside the controller. The signal wires must go in separately but share the same input to the CPU or something like that. The settings give the option of breaking the connection between them, but then only one can be connected to the CPU at the same time. When they're both connected to the same input, whichever one is highest is the one that determines the speed because if the pedal assist is on level one, you get say 2v, but you turn the throttle up to maximum, it'll raise it to 4v, so that's what the CPU will see.

P13 is to match the pedal sensor to the controller. If it's working, don't change it.

P14 is the interesting one because it controls the power. The higher the number, the more power you get and the faster your battery depletes. 12A default is pretty low unless you don't weigh much. 16A or 17A would liven things up a bit.
Sorry to resurrect this post but in regards to 12 and 14 on the menu...
I set p12 to 5 (max) and p14 to 17a from 12a like you suggested.
Is there any reason i can't take it to 20a (highest menu option i have) or was 17a a max suggestion?

Thanks again mate!
 

Eguy

Just Joined
Sep 24, 2019
3
0
The settings don't allow the pedal assist to work along with an independent throttle. You can have that with many controllers, but not with yours. It's logical that the reason is that their combined signals go into a single input. That input could be in the software or a physical pin on the CPU. Whatever it is, you can't change it. You must choose between one of these three.
1. Pedal assist only, no throttle
2. Completely independent throttle only, no pedal assist
3. Pedal assist plus throttle, where the throttle only works when you pedal.
VFR400, if you have a moment I’d like to draw on your expertise with the S830 display, if I may.
I have a preassembled bike with that display that intermittently (but very frequently) shows an E30 error. When that happens it randomly either has no PAS or has very strong PAS (as if set to level 5, when it’s actually set to level 1.) After I checked all the connections the manufacturer sent me a new controller (about a 2 month wait) but that didn’t cure the problem.
I had a few more email exchanges with the manufacturers representative and he finally told me that was normal and most customers appreciated the high power.
When I disagreed, he stopped responding to my emails.
The throttle always works perfectly, so I assume that’s ok, as well as the controller, since I’ve replaced it.
I’ve checked all the connections, so I’m inclined to believe that they’re ok.
Would you suspect the display as the source of the problem ?
(I’ve also considered the speed sensor, but when I get the E30 error, I also loose the speedometer and battery readings on the display, which I wouldn’t expect to happen with a bad speed sensor.)
I can’t seem to find availability for a S830 display, except from China with a long wait.
I’m considering trying a SW900 display (available more quickly from Amazon) but it has a single 5 prong flat connector, rather than the 2 flat connectors (5 prong and 2 prong) that my S830 has.
Do you know if the two displays can be interchanged ?
I appreciate any answers or suggestions you can give me.
Thanks,
Mike
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
3,103
934
Basildon
I'd look for a short in the cable between the controller and the LCD. Check the cable along its entire length, especially where it comes out of the LCD, goes round any tight corners or is zip-tied too tight. Next, have a good look at the connectors to make sure everything is in order.
 

Eguy

Just Joined
Sep 24, 2019
3
0
I'd look for a short in the cable between the controller and the LCD. Check the cable along its entire length, especially where it comes out of the LCD, goes round any tight corners or is zip-tied too tight. Next, have a good look at the connectors to make sure everything is in order.
First, thanks for taking the time to reply!
I’ve checked the connectors several times, but haven’t given much thought to a fault in a cable itself. I’ll check that.
One thing that suggests against a cable, in my mind anyway, is that the bike can be sitting on its side stand, with me standing beside, but not touching it, and the screen will cycle between its normal display and the error status. I’d kind of expect a cable problem to be provoked by movement, but I wouldn’t bet on it.
I would just replace the cable, except that it’s part of the display.
Can you tell me why some of the, otherwise very similar, displays have a single 5 pin flat connector, and my S830 has a 5 pin, and an additional 2 pin connector ?
My first thought was for a USB port on the display, but mine definitely doesn’t have one.
I’m asking because I’m considering buying a SW900 display, which I could get from Amazon within a few days. That way I’d be replacing both the display and the cable, except that it’s just the one cable and single 5 pin connector.
Thanks again for your help.
 

vfr400

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
3,103
934
Basildon
The 2-pin connector with brown and yellow wires is for low powered lights, probably at battery level - basically, a switched low power battery supply.

Nearly all LCDs work the same with the same 5 wires connected in the same way. Many share the same communication protocol, but the LCD and controller need to match each other in terms of sending instructions that the other can deal with. The controller is expecting to get its info from the LCD in an exact sequence. If the LCD sends it in a different sequence, the controller won't have a clue what to do.

I've never studied anything to do with the information transmitted by either device. You need special equipment to do that, so I always recommend that you buy controllers and LCD as a matched pair unless you know that a range of LCDs are compatible with a range of Controllers, like all KT LCDs work with all KT controllers, and Bigstone and King-Meter LCDs work with Lishui controllers.
 

Eguy

Just Joined
Sep 24, 2019
3
0
The 2-pin connector with brown and yellow wires is for low powered lights, probably at battery level - basically, a switched low power battery supply.

Nearly all LCDs work the same with the same 5 wires connected in the same way. Many share the same communication protocol, but the LCD and controller need to match each other in terms of sending instructions that the other can deal with. The controller is expecting to get its info from the LCD in an exact sequence. If the LCD sends it in a different sequence, the controller won't have a clue what to do.

I've never studied anything to do with the information transmitted by either device. You need special equipment to do that, so I always recommend that you buy controllers and LCD as a matched pair unless you know that a range of LCDs are compatible with a range of Controllers, like all KT LCDs work with all KT controllers, and Bigstone and King-Meter LCDs work with Lishui controllers.
That makes sense to me.
Thanks for your insights.
Mike
 

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