Hi. My e-bike display not turning on the battery fully charged theres power to the controller help.John
LCD1
- Thread starter mygrumpy001
- Start date
You do need to do one simple test to support (or not!) that the battery is fully charged. Remove the battery from the bike and check the voltage at the terminals with a DC voltmeter!
For example (I do not know your battery voltage is as it could be 24, 36 or 48 volts nominal!)), a 36 volt battery, when fully charged, should show about 42 volts.
But if your battery got too low at some point, for a 36 volt one under say 28 volts, the battery electronics will not allow charging anymore with most average chargers.
This is due to possible problems of "safety", fire and explosion, if too high a current is applied to the battery in a very low voltage state.
But then the charger will still indicate that the battery is fully charged, green not red LED - sadly!
But no charging will actually take place.
Also good bike controllers will not try to "use" the battery in that condition, because its "empty!"
All e-bikers need access to a reasonable voltmeter, even a cheap digital one from ebay will be helpful in such cases.
Compare it to a known good one at some point before believing it though!!
Naturally,if you have a higher or lower voltage battery, the effect will be the same, but at other voltages than I have mentioned.
The problem is not uncommon to e-bike batteries, sadly!
Most good bike shops have what I call "0 Volt" Li-ion battery charger, that can "recover" the battery back to normal usage in a few hours of a very, very low charge rate.
You can buy them for around US$ 100 as well, but not easy to find!! I only know of one company, who sell one for 36 volt batteries only, but there must be others around.
But remember that very low voltage, may be an indication of a battery's end of life, and the battery needs all the old cells removing and quality (expensive) new cells need to be inserted. This is not a job for the average biker as it is possible to unintentionally cause a fire or explosion!
So do leave it to a battery expert for safety reasons!!
If the battery is truly fully charged, you may have an electronics problem...just as awkward!!
Regards and best wishes
Andy
When the LCD doesn't switch on, it's because it's broken, it has insufficient voltage from the battery or the battery voltage goes down when you switch on.
Measuring the voltage between the red and black wires on the LCD's connector will tell you everything you need to know about what's wrong. You can only do that if you have the flat connector rather than the round one. If you have the round one, you have to take the controller PCB out of its case to get at the ends of those wires, so it might be easier to look for the connection faults first and measure the battery voltage.
Full battery voltage there says that your LCD is faulty. Faulty LCDs are nearly always caused by either water in them or the wires pulled out.
If it turns out that your LCD is bad, you can get your bike working by disconnecting the LCD and making a bridge between the red and blue wires and another bridge between the white and yellow ones, so only the black is left on its own. That should give you level one pedal assist and throttle operation while you look for a new LCD.
No full battery voltage between the red and black wires means that the fault is somewhere further back. The reading should make it obvious what's wrong so it shouldn't be hard to work out where to solve it. No voltage means a bad connection somewhere. Low voltage means a bad battery.
Measuring the voltage between the red and black wires on the LCD's connector will tell you everything you need to know about what's wrong. You can only do that if you have the flat connector rather than the round one. If you have the round one, you have to take the controller PCB out of its case to get at the ends of those wires, so it might be easier to look for the connection faults first and measure the battery voltage.
Full battery voltage there says that your LCD is faulty. Faulty LCDs are nearly always caused by either water in them or the wires pulled out.
If it turns out that your LCD is bad, you can get your bike working by disconnecting the LCD and making a bridge between the red and blue wires and another bridge between the white and yellow ones, so only the black is left on its own. That should give you level one pedal assist and throttle operation while you look for a new LCD.
No full battery voltage between the red and black wires means that the fault is somewhere further back. The reading should make it obvious what's wrong so it shouldn't be hard to work out where to solve it. No voltage means a bad connection somewhere. Low voltage means a bad battery.
I can't remember now if we tried to see if the lcd1 works or not ?
John's has an that lcd3 works fine because we tried it at my house, I connected it to one of my older 29E batteries and my controller and his system worked fine. The hub span nicely when holding the axle.
We came to the conclusion his KT controller was faulty, so not sure if John is still trying to connect this controller up or not as I know he said he has bought a new one.
John's has an that lcd3 works fine because we tried it at my house, I connected it to one of my older 29E batteries and my controller and his system worked fine. The hub span nicely when holding the axle.
We came to the conclusion his KT controller was faulty, so not sure if John is still trying to connect this controller up or not as I know he said he has bought a new one.
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It is actually quite important to check the battery voltage before any conclusions are made for this problem, logically speaking!
Its also a very easy and very cheap test and the knowledge gained will be very useful to help you further in correcting any problems.
Truly.
But of course its your choice either way as to what you actually do and when.
regards and best of luck.
Andy
There aren't really any faults in the controller that can stop the the LCD from working. The data wires go direct to the CPU through resistors, so even a battery short on the 5V can't get to the LCD. The other wires are at battery level anyway so no short can harm them.
John can eliminate some faults if he says whether the LCD lights up for a moment when he presses the on switch. If it doesn't, there's a connection problem. If it does, it means a faulty battery or bad LCD.
This kit which is for his Brommy was all working fine at my house with my 36v controller, John's original controller doesn't work (probably blown) so he has bought a new one (KT).
Somewhere along the line John has a connection or battery issue.
I believe it was working when he tried connecting with his dolphin batteries, he has also been experimenting with Dewalt tool batteries (voltage unknown) for a lightweight power option.. So the issue is likely how he has connected these batteries up and in what configuration.
Somewhere along the line John has a connection or battery issue.
I believe it was working when he tried connecting with his dolphin batteries, he has also been experimenting with Dewalt tool batteries (voltage unknown) for a lightweight power option.. So the issue is likely how he has connected these batteries up and in what configuration.
Can you give me a quote for an essay on ebike batteries that I need for the Ebike Future Conference and as part of my MSc on Energy Systems of the Future. The title should be "Can Dolphin, Silver Fish, Killer Whale and Shark batteries exist in harmony. Through natural selection, will one rise to become dominant?"
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