Help! Looking for battery control board advice for Oxygen eMate 13Ah MTB 2015
- Thread starter minimaltoo
- Start date
Ok, so the charger is 42v with my multimeter shoved directly into the jack plug.
When the charger plug is in the battery socket, and the battery turned on (removed from the bike), the voltage between Cell 10 and the ground on the BMS board (where the negative lead hits the pad) is 35.98v
There is 0v difference between Cell 10 and the positive supply to the controller.
There is a 6.1v difference between the negative supply to the controller and the BMS board negative pad.
That last one puzzles me: it should be a direct connection and at the same voltage, surely ?
Or is this expected behaviour if the BMS can’t sense the cells properly and it’s defaulting to a safe “no charge” mode to protect things ?
When the charger plug is in the battery socket, and the battery turned on (removed from the bike), the voltage between Cell 10 and the ground on the BMS board (where the negative lead hits the pad) is 35.98v
There is 0v difference between Cell 10 and the positive supply to the controller.
There is a 6.1v difference between the negative supply to the controller and the BMS board negative pad.
That last one puzzles me: it should be a direct connection and at the same voltage, surely ?
Or is this expected behaviour if the BMS can’t sense the cells properly and it’s defaulting to a safe “no charge” mode to protect things ?
Ahh...
Or more accurately, Arrrrggh !
There are 3 pins on the socket, and without the charger connected the two ground pins are shorted together.
However, when the plug goes in, only one is connected to the barrel of the power lead - the other one is left floating and disconnected...
No prizes for guessing that I managed to solder the floating one to the battery pack negative line - I’ll swap the controller negative feed and the battery negative so that there’s no way of accidentally hitting the throttle when charging.
Again, many thanks for your persistence, and I shall mutter to myself about choosing the wrong pin for a few hours more...
Or more accurately, Arrrrggh !
There are 3 pins on the socket, and without the charger connected the two ground pins are shorted together.
However, when the plug goes in, only one is connected to the barrel of the power lead - the other one is left floating and disconnected...
No prizes for guessing that I managed to solder the floating one to the battery pack negative line - I’ll swap the controller negative feed and the battery negative so that there’s no way of accidentally hitting the throttle when charging.
Again, many thanks for your persistence, and I shall mutter to myself about choosing the wrong pin for a few hours more...
Or maybe not.
Now I get a spark and audible ‘crack’ noise from the socket when trying to plug the charger in, so have definitely stuffed something up
Does a normal socket use both of the non-positive pins, or just one to the BMS negative and the controller is fed directly from a second BMS negative wire ?
Now I get a spark and audible ‘crack’ noise from the socket when trying to plug the charger in, so have definitely stuffed something up
Does a normal socket use both of the non-positive pins, or just one to the BMS negative and the controller is fed directly from a second BMS negative wire ?
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And now it’s charging.
Didn't change anything, but there’s no spark and it’s looking good for the moment. Maybe I needed to turn the battery off (it’s off now) and I’d got that wrong last time I plugged it in (I still have to get used to having a switch that works).
Didn't change anything, but there’s no spark and it’s looking good for the moment. Maybe I needed to turn the battery off (it’s off now) and I’d got that wrong last time I plugged it in (I still have to get used to having a switch that works).
The spark is because the Capacitor/capacitors are drained, plug in with battery off then switch on to for charging.