New problem - diagnosis help please !

[KirstinS]

This morning I rode without issue to work (7miles)

This evening I had the following issue for 6 of 7 miles and then it vanished.

I use throttle only and no Pas or brake cutouts are currently connected to my ku65

After applying throttle I would get between one and 10 seconds power. Then it would cut with a slight #chink# noise

If I released the throttle and reapplied it then the power at wheel comes back every Time. But then cuts again within ten seconds and usually more like 2.

The led handlebar lights never go off and I never need to switch system back on via the handle bar. Just let throttle go and re apply.

This makes me think it must be a throttle or a Hall sensor issue?

What do you think ?

I have a spare throttle and a spare controller

What's the best approach here ?

Thank
Kirstin

 

[Deleted member 4366]

If there was a noise, it can only come from the motor. I guess it was grtting an incorrect timing sequence, so check all the motor connections right back to the controller. It could be a hall sensor problem. If it does it again, try unplugging the hall sensors to see if it runs sensorless.

 

[KirstinS]

If there was a noise, it can only come from the motor. I guess it was grtting an incorrect timing sequence, so check all the motor connections right back to the controller. It could be a hall sensor problem. If it does it again, try unplugging the hall sensors to see if it runs sensorless.

It was only slight noise. On reflection I wonder if simply the noise of a motor suddenly losing power at 18,mph

Will Ping test all motor connections first later this eve

Doesn't sound like you suspect the throttle

 

[trex]

irregular time to cutouts could be caused by a faulty throttle.

 

[KirstinS]

I changed the throttle but same problem

Tried sensorless. Woah. Made a horrible problem, motor really rough and nasty sounding

 

[Deleted member 4366]

What motor is it?

 

[KirstinS]

Hooked up a new controller and working fine sensorless in the kitchen ( no load)

Which has cheered me up no end

I'll solder up the hall sensors now and see

 

[KirstinS]

It's a front bpm 2

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You probably cooked a couple of FETs in the other controller then. A KU65 is a bit small for a BPM. Is your new one a bit more robust? A 9 FET one might be better with the current turned down a bit if your battery can't take it.

 

[KirstinS]

Works same sensored , start up is slower on the new ku65/63 combined controller than my original ku65

Strange - guess it's a controller issue

I do over volt them !

 

[KirstinS]

Crossed with your post d8veh

Nope it's the same

It will be fine, I was testing at 14s

 

[KirstinS]

Actually not same, old one said 17a and this 15a

 

[Deleted member 4366]

At 14S, you've cooked the FETs. You should get a 48v controller.

 

[KirstinS]

I was just playing really - it was far too fast and I'll be dialling it right back to 44.4v

i did order ku93 in my last BMS but I sold it on. The thing was the size of a huosebrick and wont go anywhere on my setup

Do you know of any small 48v controllers out of interest ?

 

[KirstinS]

I've found one of these very cheaply available in the UK (not from this link but this link has most info )

http://www.ibuyla.com/product/22833804566/

about same size as a ku65

Looks like a good match to me but I'd be greatful for any pitfalls to be pointed out by those who know !

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Looks OK to me. It'svery similar to the original KU63. Only one level of PAS - maximum - might be a problem, unless you use one of those LED panels.

While you're there, get one of those £90 electric folding bikes and tell us what it's like. You should get a nice price on Ebay. Why can't we get them like that here?

 

[KirstinS]

Thanks d8veh, I don't use pas at all so that's fine for me.

And I do have an led panel

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Not any LED panel. It has to be the Kidney shaped one that can mix the PAS signal with the throttle into a single throttle signal.

Don't forget that that controller has an ignition wire that you should connect to the battery via a switch.

 

[KirstinS]

Ahh rethink required then
Mine is a 810 panel