New to e-bikes - Buying decision - Help Needed

[carima]

Not a prob Soph.

I think the bike I tried was the Ride+, although it was referred to as the Trek 7.3fx+ at the shop. Either way, it was the one with Bionx system.

Unfortunately, I tried the Trek in central London and Cytronex up the hills in Winchester, so a direct comparison was a little tricky.

The Trek was definitely well made and would have fulfilled what I was looking for, namely a traditional looking hybrid bike (With the exception of the battery rack).

I don't know if you have looked at the Bionx system before, but to my untrained eye it did look very advanced. Not sure how useful the four power settings are as I played with them for a bit and then just stuck it on the highest. The acceleration was very satisfying away from the lights!

The battery is quite bulky (but not all that heavy), but I have no doubt this is necessary to achieve the claimed range. I don't recall this really impacting on the balance that much, it certainly felt like a competent bike. The battery is very securely mounted, but for my tastes is too large to comfortably remove and carry with me on a daily basis.

Sorry I couldn't be more helpful on the specific issue. As I was in London traffic most of the time, I didn't lean over all that much to notice any stability issues.

Just for reference, it was Action Cycles nr Embankment where I tested it. Very helpful chap in there if you are local and can get in for a test.

 

[carima]

OK, so thanks for all the advice. I have decided to take the plunge and order a Cytonex. Couldn't justify or really afford the Claud Butler, so Ridgeback it is, despite taking advantage of the cycle to work scheme, thanks to my company agreeing to facilitate it all and stump up the cash. One of our areas of business is sustainable travel, so it would be slightly ironic if they hadn't.

I'm heading down to pick up the bike on Saturday. No-hills/Modern Time/Cytronex (So many names!) were fantastically helpful in arranging the package, really going out of their way. Despite some advice to the contrary on this thread (Sorry about that), I couldn't help but go with the higher RPM motor to eek out those few extra mph. I realise I might suffer a little on the hills and in range (This isn't an issue for my daily journey), but if I'm going to use this for more than just my regular commute to the station it needs to be fun! I have also ordered a standard replacement front wheel.

I now just need to come up with a good plan for locking this thing up at the station (I appreciate this is quite a risk, so it will be insured). I was thinking of using a heavy duty padlock and coated chain (Previously used with my motorbike) along with a looped extension cable to run through the wheels? Is this likely to be enough? It will be buried in a rack with many many other bikes, so I'm hoping it won't stand out. Obviously the battery will be coming with me, that being one of the key points of the Cytronex. Am I right in assuming that hub motor wheels can't be used with locking skewers?

I'll post a review in the appropriate section when i've had time to test it and condition that battery! Can't wait to get going!

 

[AndyOfTheSouth]

Hi Carima

You might consider using two separate locks, on the grounds that this doubles the effort for anyone trying to take it. It also gives a bit of flexibility of what you lock (frame, wheels, etc) to where (eg railings). If you are really concerned, you might use both a cable lock and a shackle type, since they require different tools to break...

Just notice that there is a sale on in Halfords of bike locks, by the way.

Andy

 

[daniel.weck]

There is no point in buying a cheap D-lock because it can be broken in seconds (with a car jack), and cable or ball-bearing locks are dead-easy to cut (most chains are too). At the end of the day, any lock can be brute-forced in under 10 minutes, but like Andy said, they act as deterrent. More importantly, there are best practices regarding how to use the locks, to make it more difficult for thieves to position/stabilize their power tools.

My advice is to use this D-Lock: Abus Granit 54 X-Plus, which is very strong indeed. The 300mm version is better (instead of 230mm) because it'll be easier to use in awkward parking spots (more reach). Also buy the TexKF bracket (not the USH), which offers a reliable, light and simple frame fixing mechanism.

Add cables around wheels and saddle if necessary, but again: most cables are easy to cut, so just hope that no thief will be interested in your bike.

My opinion is that expensive saddles (like Brooks) should not be left on the bike, simply carry a removal tool and store the saddle in a bag with you. A bike without saddle is immediately less attractive, for obvious reasons (thieves usually ride the bike once stolen).

As for batteries, the key locks are easy to break into, but then it would reduce the (already-low) resale potential so I'm not sure thieves are really interested in nicking batteries off parked bikes.

Cheers, Dan

Hi Carima

You might consider using two separate locks, on the grounds that this doubles the effort for anyone trying to take it. It also gives a bit of flexibility of what you lock (frame, wheels, etc) to where (eg railings). If you are really concerned, you might use both a cable lock and a shackle type, since they require different tools to break...

Just notice that there is a sale on in Halfords of bike locks, by the way.

Andy

 

[daniel.weck]

The Abus Granit 54 X-Plus D-Lock, 300mm with TexKF mounting bracket would be quite discrete on a Cytronex. In-situ with my Brompton:

 

[eddieo]

I have the Abus granite as well. It gets good reviews. I also got one of these chains as well . It is truly a beast! believe me the picture does not do it justice! lol Thankfully I got the 13mm version which is still 5 kg

TINYLINK.com

 

[carima]

Thanks for the advice.

I wasn't too worried about the weight or bulk of the lock/chain as my intention was to leave it at the station locked to the stands. (I hope this isn't some sort of faux pas on this forum, I could see how it could be, but it seems to be quite common at the station.)

The chain I was planning on using is very heavy duty, far too much to realistically carry on a bicycle on a daily basis (Previously used for a motorbike), similar to your suggestion eddieo. It is coupled with what seems to me to be a sturdy padlock, which if I recall correctly is actually an Abus, this one I think:

It certainly has a very tight shackle (if that is the correct terminology), only just big enough for the chain rings. I was thinking this would limit the options for levering the padlock open; it certainly makes locking and unlocking even with the key quite tricky, but this has to be a good thing?

I like the idea of two locks though. Might have to consider one of those suggested d-locks. I could wrap the afforementioned chain around the front wheel, frame and stand, then put the d-lock through the back wheel, frame and also the stand.

Looks like I will have to leave 5 minutes earlier each morning just to allow time for all this locking up! I'd like to think I'm being over cautious, but it would be a long walk home if I was wrong!

Thanks again!

 

[eddieo]

have a look at the spec of the lock and chain I attached it is really good value. but in your case if you are parking in the same spot everyday
two locks.... One abus style D lock and cable + leave your motorbike one on site. BUt make sure the lock is not on the ground....

as others have said a thief needs different tools for different locks. I can not see the average thief getting through the chain I mentioned. it also is long enough to take a cable for the wheels as well

the close padlocks are designed to take one chain link ONLY (you pass one link through the other then padlock it) so be careful that you get the correct chain for the lock......